Drum Brake Auto-adjusting Too Tight

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Nad_Yvalhosert

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I'd suggest checking the left rear flexible hose hasn't collapsed internally and is trapping the brake on - were this not a 10 month old thread....
How many "Left Rear" brake hoses are there on a solid axle with drum brakes?

I looked at my '95 C2500 and I couldn't find one. Just the hose from the frame to the axle. And I suspect if THAT one was a problem, it'd affect both rear brakes equally
 

Pinger

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How many "Left Rear" brake hoses are there on a solid axle with drum brakes?

I looked at my '95 C2500 and I couldn't find one. Just the hose from the frame to the axle. And I suspect if THAT one was a problem, it'd affect both rear brakes equally

Good point!
Still, the pipe from the junction to the LH brake could have gotten damaged and/or have a bit of debris in it. A kink or squashed section that lets fluid through under pressure but delays its return could be troublesome. The OP's problem does appear to be insistent though.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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Good point!
Still, the pipe from the junction to the LH brake could have gotten damaged and/or have a bit of debris in it. A kink or squashed section that lets fluid through under pressure but delays its return could be troublesome. The OP's problem does appear to be insistent though.

I'd agree with that.
You think he might've seen that 9-10 months ago when he was having this problem? This thread is from last September...
 

Pinger

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I'd agree with that.
You think he might've seen that 9-10 months ago when he was having this problem? This thread is from last September...
OP's problem wasn't so insistent for him to pursue it for 10 months - or inform us of the solution. Unless it set the truck on fire....
Dariusz seems to have the same problem though.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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OP's problem wasn't so insistent for him to pursue it for 10 months - or inform us of the solution. Unless it set the truck on fire....
Dariusz seems to have the same problem though.
I concur with the others on the wheel cylinder being grungy inside,or some of the hardware being damaged. The springs do wear out eventually; that's why when servicing drum brakes it's a good idea to replace both wheel cylinders and the hardware if they weren't replaced before. If you suspect they're original ones then by all means replace that stuff!
And there could be contamination in the line too, but the wheel cylinder and/or hardware is a better place to start.
 

Dariusz Salomon

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I concur with the others on the wheel cylinder being grungy inside,or some of the hardware being damaged. The springs do wear out eventually; that's why when servicing drum brakes it's a good idea to replace both wheel cylinders and the hardware if they weren't replaced before. If you suspect they're original ones then by all means replace that stuff!
And there could be contamination in the line too, but the wheel cylinder and/or hardware is a better place to start.
My brake cylinders are relatively new-2 years maybe,both ac delco-tjo I did not touch springs and other hardware-thise are imo still original. Maybe that's where the problem lays?
 

HotWheelsBurban

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My brake cylinders are relatively new-2 years maybe,both ac delco-tjo I did not touch springs and other hardware-thise are imo still original. Maybe that's where the problem lays?
Could be. Check the backing plate for wear on those surfaces where the side of the brake shoes touch it. But yes, after 20+ years I would replace the hardware.
 

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My brake cylinders are relatively new-2 years maybe,both ac delco-tjo I did not touch springs and other hardware-thise are imo still original. Maybe that's where the problem lays?
Maybe, maybe not.
Your post reads like one I could have written. New AC Delco cylinders 2 years ago and re-used hardware. Given I struggled like hell with the old springs (had to improvise a tool to gain leverage), old springs don't give up the fight that easily.
I did generously lube all the pivots and slidey bits though (and drums off last week, all of that was still good).

Could be. Check the backing plate for wear on those surfaces where the side of the brake shoes touch it. But yes, after 20+ years I would replace the hardware.
With the higher mileage on yours compared to mine, HWB's suggestion there is worth following.
 

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I know that this is an old thread but I would like to point out that brake fluid is HYGROscopic not HYDROscopic.
HydroPHOBIC is what I worry about. Hydrophobic fluid is damn dangerous. Look at Cujo!

Convert to disk brakes and leave all this nonsense behind for good
Use a crappy disc conversion kit, gain all sorts of NEW nonsense.

A properly-done conversion using well-engineered parts would generally simplify brake service. But how often do OEM drum brakes require service? It's not like it takes a mechanical genius to figure out drum brakes.
 
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