I have a set of those. They're cut OK, except that they're thick-web, "split point" bits, and I hate thick webs and split points. Manufacturers often use thick webs to make up for using crappy steel. The steel is brittle, so without a thick web, the bit shatters easily. In other words, the thick web is a cost-cutting measure because they can cheapen the raw material.
My "good" bits are USA-made, HSS, thin-web Government-Surplus from decades ago. Properly sharpened, they cut like crazy. Sometimes, they break. And the ones that get used, are getting pretty short from resharpening.
Thick-web bits are stronger, so they take abuse better...but they're harder to push through the material. To sort-of make up for that, they sharpen them by splitting the point. Duplicating that when re-sharpening is hateful. And I've seen brand-new, factory-sharpened bits that have crappy geometry; they don't stand a chance at cutting properly.
For the record, I worked in a production environment for thirteen years. The Company sent out the dull drill bits to an outside contractor for re-sharpening. (Hundreds, if not thousands of bits at a time, and 11/64 was hugely popular.) The sharpening contractor did such a piss-poor job (Drill Doctor, or similar) that when we got the "sharpened" bits back, I'd have to put them against a bench grinder to make them cut. In other words, I could re-sharpen the bits by hand on a bench grinder and make them better than the "professionals" could resharpen them using a fixture and diamond wheels. (Dumbasses put no relief on the cutting edges, so the bit resisted going into the metal.) It got so bad that eventually the company quit resharpening bits smaller than a certain size--they just bought new ones. I've got five pounds of used, dull but otherwise OK smaller drill bits that someday I'll get around to sharpening, that I took home from that company. They were going in the dumpster otherwise.
SHI TTY CHINESE BITS ARE NEVER GOING TO CUT PROPERLY. The steel is no good. A proper sharpening gets them to cut nice...once. If the hole isn't too deep.
If you see drill bits that have a little "pilot" point on them, for Fo ok's sake don't buy them. They're a gimmick. Good luck resharpening them. They're junk drill bits with a fancy, factory-sharpened end that can't be duplicated. Use 'em once or twice, throw them in the recycle bin. Garbage.
IF (big IF) the steel is good, a drill bit can be sharpened to cut and to last...but thick webs make that a challenge. Not impossible, but not easy, either.
In my experience, drilling mild steel, broken bolts, etc--it matters less that the bits are "Titanium" coated; or Cobalt; or whatever Miracle Technology. The common stuff is made with cheap steel, thick webs and split points, and they don't work as well as a QUALITY HSS thin-web bit that's been sharpened properly with some relief on the cutting lips.
As others have said, don't sneak-up on the final hole size by drilling progressively larger. Select your final drill bit size. LOOK at the web of that bit. Select a pilot bit just a hint larger than the web. Drill the pilot hole, drill the hole "for real". Two steps--not five, or three, for any drilled hole likely found in automotive work.