DIY traction bars.

[michael hurd]

The axle moves in an arc set by the front spring eye, and the length from the eye to the center of the axle gets very 'slightly' longer as the spring compresses and flattens out with weight.

Adding those will force the axle to try and pivot in two different arcs... the one set by the spring eye and then the other set by the length of the so called 'traction' bar, they will 'fight' each other.

Those would be fine if you chucked away the leaf springs and went to a coil sprung rear, but you would also have to have a panhard bar or a watts link for lateral restraint, and a third top bar for torque reaction.

See 'Race Car Vehicle Dynamics', [ Milliken & Milliken ] Chapter 17 "Suspension Geometry"

 

[TexasCowboy]

The trucks not pushing enough power to b talking about racing set ups in a 4x4 truck

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[IOWNJUNK]

Doesn't take a lot of power, soft springs and deep sand is all you need. My toyota with a 4cyl was plagued with it.

 

[great white]

The trucks not pushing enough power to b talking about racing set ups in a 4x4 truck

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It's not about power, it's about suspension geometry.

Which was what MH was getting at.

 

[boy&hisdogs]

You don't need trac bars anywhere besides the drag strip and the dunes (with stock power at least). They will limit your suspension travel, not to mention drag on stuff out on a trail. I don't think that the thunk you are describing is from your axle wrapping. Maybe it's your locker?

 

[TexasCowboy]

It is something with your centersection. Either the yolk u joint or internal with a thunk

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