Difference between rotors?

[Doublestack00]

Going to be doing some brake upgrade just wondering what rotors to get?

I know to get them for my model, but Amazon, ebay and the parts stores offer several brands. Plus all the slotted, drilled or slotted and drilled.

Are any truly better than the other warranting spending the extra cash on them or should I just the basic rotors from the local Napa/Advanced?


I will be installing 3/4 calipers, NBS M/C, rotors and steel braided lines to get rid of this super spongy pedal and vibration.

 

[kennythewelder]

The difference in rotors is how well it displaces the heat from the braking process. A rotor that is drilled and slotted will let out more heat that is built up from heavy or high speed braking. This will do nothing to get rid of your spongy pedal. The brake lines will help a little, but the master cylinder is where the problem is. You need to do a conversion from a 2002 1500 truck, master cylinder. There are different size M.C. so be sure to get the long one, and you will need an adapter for the front brake line. If you look on here on the forum for axels and brakes, on page 3, I have a post about cheep brake upgrades ???????? Look in this post and there is a pic sent to me by some one who has done the GMT 800 MC swap. The MC swap alone will get rid of your spongy pedal.

 

[Doublestack00]

Yea, I know the MC is going to help the most. But with the truck being 25 years old and having 200K on the body the rubber hoses could stand to be changed and it will just add to firming up the pedal.

I also need rotors as they are shot, crazy vibrations with even a little braking and they are to close to being out of spec to be turned.

I am picking up the MC adapter tomorrow from my local Autozone for $2.49.


My main question is, say AZ for example they carry 3 brands of rotors, non slotted or drilled and vary but $15-30 a rotor.

Also, the same goes for Ebay/Amazon. The pricing is all over the map, just did not want to buy some slotted and/or drilled rotors and them be crap and wrap the first time they get hot or I hit a puddle. I do not have to get a slotted or drill, but would spend the money if they will last.



Got a great deal on a clean truck, going to start trying to freshen up several parts of the truck.

 

[kennythewelder]

I have 211,111 on my truck and I am still running the OE rotors. I have warped them a little by high speed braking. It just depends on what you will be doing with the truck.

 

[Doublestack00]

Mines a weekend toy/work truck. Within the next 6 months to a year I plan to lift it and add bigger wheels and tires. Most likely regear it as well.

Your truck looks great for that mileage.

This is what i picked up.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[kennythewelder]

I guess my last post wasn't very informative. Sorry. If you are using the truck as a daily driver, and only pulling light loads, the OE rotors are just fine for that. If you are pulling loads over 5000 Lbs, or if you are racing the truck at speeds over 100 mph then you need drilled and slotted rotors. At 150 mph you wouldn't use the brakes at all, that is why a dragster has a parachute, to slow it down under 150 MPH where the brakes can be used, and they still need to be drilled and slotted for heat displacement, and weight. I have hauled a yard of dirt in the bed of my truck, and at a different time a yard of dirt on a trailer, (that weights around 1 ton. ) My truck stops ok with the OE rotors with these loads. This isn't something I do very often, but the rotors can and will handle this with no problem. I hope this is a little more helpful.

 

[kennythewelder]

Your truck also looks grate, mine has been repainted in Oct. 2013, and is in excellent shape inside and out. It is my daily driver, and I have a lot of performance up grades. The engine, trans is original in mine. The rear end has new bearings, but is original with 342 gears.

 

[Doublestack00]

Cool, I'm going to just got with some OE equivalent rotors.

What performance upgrades? My truck has a newer crate motor in it, but I'd love to get a little more pep out of it.

 

[kennythewelder]

I have shorty headers, with true dual exhaust, with 2 old school glass pack mufflers. Cat delete, no exhaust restrictions at all, a 170 degree thermostat, a cold air filter in the OE air box, a billet distributor, I shaved the throttle plate defuser from the bottom of the throttle plate, ( mine is a Vortec 5.7L 350) and I have tuned it to max with a Jet programmer. I will out run a 2013 4 door DC 1500 with a 5.3 and flow masters, and my truck has a max MPH of 228, so although it will never go that fast, I never have to worry about it cutting off at 99 MPH. I still run regular gas in it with no prob.

 

[kennythewelder]

If you go on my profile and click photos, then click the pic, I have 7 or 8 pics in there on my truck