ddm tuning hid kits

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Kris-R

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Don't wanna be the black sheep in this thread but I guess I'll have to be. I'm on another website called e46fanatics.com and DDM Tuning is actually a sponsor over there. HONESTLY, they have THE WORST ratings and testomonials from members on that website. They never answer calls, don't reply to emails, and people have trouble with their warranty program. Instead making it seem like I'm bashing on these guys, I'm going to show you all a little screen shot from e46fanatics just to show you the search results when you type in "DDM".


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DDM by King Ramses, on Flickr
 

DRAGGIN95

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Hey man, did you buy plug and play, or complete setup's with relay's for power, I have bought a couple of plug and play type's and built my own relay harness, but I would to buy some with it already built in?
 

CodyB

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I say good guys, Buy strait from their website, if its on ebay it could be a guy posing as a legitimate company trying to make money off of cheap chinese ballasts. We had one 55watt ballast dead on arrival and they had it swapped out for I believe just the price of one way shipping to them. They did not give us any trouble.
 

miles5241

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thanks for the help guys! i'm gonna be looking into the 5000k 35w. once i get my new headlight assembly's also gonna do the 4 hi mod. what is the benefit to the 2in/2out harness?
 

1badgmc

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what is the benefit to the 2in/2out harness?

Once they're warmed up, HIDs take a good deal less power to run than halogens, but it takes quite a bit more power than halogens to ignite the HIDs. To get power to your headlights, the power has to go from the battery, through your truck's wiring, through the headlight switch and then out to the headlights. The stock wiring is often not up to the task of this power draw. If it's not, you'll end up with misfires and flickering. The most common symptom is that only one HID comes on when you flip the switch. The wiring just can't handle the draw of both HIDs igniting at once. After the one side is warmed up, you can turn the lights off and then on again and the other side will usually come on. The relay harness pulls power for the ballasts directly from the battery instead of having to go through the truck's harness. It gives the HIDs a cleaner power source and takes a load off of the stock wiring and switch.
 

miles5241

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Once they're warmed up, HIDs take a good deal less power to run than halogens, but it takes quite a bit more power than halogens to ignite the HIDs. To get power to your headlights, the power has to go from the battery, through your truck's wiring, through the headlight switch and then out to the headlights. The stock wiring is often not up to the task of this power draw. If it's not, you'll end up with misfires and flickering. The most common symptom is that only one HID comes on when you flip the switch. The wiring just can't handle the draw of both HIDs igniting at once. After the one side is warmed up, you can turn the lights off and then on again and the other side will usually come on. The relay harness pulls power for the ballasts directly from the battery instead of having to go through the truck's harness. It gives the HIDs a cleaner power source and takes a load off of the stock wiring and switch.

ok gotchya. that sounds like a better way to hook them up in practice. also the fact they use less power then the halogens is what i'm really looking at cause every time my sub hits the headlights dim a bit and i don't want to buy a cap.
 
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