Dash removal (electrical gremlin)

[RawbDidIt]

So, my dash lights went out on my way home the other night. The fuse was blown. Changed the fuse and the new one blew too. Obviously I have a short. After looking through the electrical diagrams, I've narrowed it down to the gray wire behind the dash. Only problem is the problem must be behind the main dash assembly. I've torn apart all the trim pieces, removed the three bolts from the top of the dash, the 2 large bolts on the bottom of the dash on either side, the bar under the steering column, the 2 steel plates under the knee bolster, and still can't get the dash to rotate. What am I missing?

Diagnosing information:
Only the back lights are out, the gauges all work, as does the gear indicator. No melted wires that I can see, and the back of the gauge cluster looks fine as well.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[east302]

Here's a write-up I did when I pulled the dash in my 98. Hope it helps.

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/dash-removal-and-replacement.38536/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[someotherguy]

I think before I ripped the dash down I would have disconnected the rear light harness at the end of the driver side frame rail, and any trailer harness if one is attached. See if fuse still blows.

Richard

 

[east302]

Are you looking for splice #217 which is somewhere between the gauge cluster and radio?

Diagnostics below are for all instrument panel lights out on a 98. Assuming you're at step 2, I would gamble on a new headlamp switch first if you're getting low voltage.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RawbDidIt]

Here's a write-up I did when I pulled the dash in my 98. Hope it helps.

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/dash-removal-and-replacement.38536/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'll use this when I go after it again next weekend.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[RawbDidIt]

I think before I ripped the dash down I would have disconnected the rear light harness at the end of the driver side frame rail, and any trailer harness if one is attached. See if fuse still blows.

Richard

It's fuse 14, I don't see anything on that circuit that has anything to do with the rear lights, though I'll check if they're out before I go any further.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[RawbDidIt]

Are you looking for splice #217 which is somewhere between the gauge cluster and radio?

Diagnostics below are for all instrument panel lights out on a 98. Assuming you're at step 2, I would gamble on a new headlamp switch first if you're getting low voltage.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The problem is a short somewhere in the circuit, causing the fuse to blow. I need to find where the wire is grounding.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[east302]

Edit: sorry, misread your post. In case you need it, here are the diagrams:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RawbDidIt]

Thanks, I found the gray wire I need to follow, but it goes behind the main dash, and I need to get back there to inspect the full run. Not entirely sure why there's anything behind the gauge cluster, but it's got to be hiding the problem

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[east302]

Yeah, I agree, it doesn't make a lot of sense that there would be a damaged wire in there since nothing really moves back there. I guess there's a first for everything.

The headlight dimmer switch would have seemed the more likely culprit since power goes through it to fuse 14.

Good luck, hope you can track it down without pulling everything apart.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk