Coolant flush issue

[Scooterwrench]

Rotor should point towards #1 cyl. and point of reluctor should be just leaving point of pick up coil. That will put you +/- 2deg.

 

[JPVortex]

Rotor should point towards #1 cyl. and point of reluctor should be just leaving point of pick up coil. That will put you +/- 2deg.

Ill just retime it with a timing light.

 

[JPVortex]

Thinking of using a sanding block for some of the gasket surfaces. Whats a good grit to use? I was thinking like 400

 

[Hipster]

I agree guys. Off to the machine shop the manifold goes!

It's at tdc right now and going back in whichever way the rotor is facing will be my number 1 spark plug wire.

Thanks guys!

No, that's not how you drop a Distibutor in. The trigger on the pick up coil/reluctor, the rotor, and the post on the cap need to be in alignment to have every thing in phase, if not you can have spark scatter and misfires that no amount of setting the timing with a timing light will correct. There's a reason the install is detailed in a FSM, Follow it and don't create more problems for yourself.

 

[RichLo]

Thinking of using a sanding block for some of the gasket surfaces. Whats a good grit to use? I was thinking like 400

I wouldnt use anything abrasive, not as big of a deal with cast iron heads but still. Use a brass brush.

 

[Scooterwrench]

A 1-1/2" wood chisel honed to a razors edge is a great gasket scraper. Hold it as flat to the surface as you can and be careful not to gouge the surface. Worse tool out there are these abrasive discs guys are using to remove gaskets. Guess they're too lazy to use a proper scraper so they ruin mating surfaces with their power toys.

 

[Schurkey]

Worse tool out there are these abrasive discs guys are using to remove gaskets. Guess they're too lazy to use a proper scraper so they ruin mating surfaces with their power toys.

AND they infect EVERYTHING including their own lungs with the abrasive dust (Silicon Carbide, I think) the discs throw off. GM specifically warns against using them. The abrasive dust settles in the interior of the engine, and the engine being torn apart in the next stall, and the transmission valve body being worked-on two stalls down.

Machine shops know when those abrasive pads have been used--they can see the wavy surface as they're machining them flat again. They're bad on iron parts, they're horrible when used on aluminum castings.

 

[JPVortex]

Ok thank you guys! Definitely not going to use anything too abrasive.

I'll scrape with a wood tipped blade and run over it with a brass brush

 

[Erik the Awful]

If I use a power tool to remove gaskets on aluminum, it's red roloc pads. Even still, you have to be careful. The brown roloc pads are okay on cast iron or steel.

 

[Caman96]

I'll scrape with a wood tipped blade

A wooden edge will loose the that battle.