Coolant flush issue

[someotherguy]

If you can't get that bolt out STOP! Pull the manifold and take it to a machine shop that has a milling machine. They can clamp it to the table and center it up over that bolt and cut it out with an end mill,tap and install a tread insert or(yuck!)helicoil.

Definitely better advice.

As I said that intake is pricey. Currently the Edelbrock 3704 TBI intake is $500.

Richard

 

[Erik the Awful]

If you can't get that bolt out STOP! Pull the manifold and take it to a machine shop that has a milling machine. They can clamp it to the table and center it up over that bolt and cut it out with an end mill,tap and install a tread insert or(yuck!)helicoil.

Yup.

This is a good time to mention, don't use a hardened bolt in a place that doesn't need it if there's ever a chance you'll have to extract it, especially if it's a place prone to corrosion. This is why I don't like hardened bolts in exhaust manifolds. I've had to extract one before.

 

[JPVortex]

That's a kind of pricey intake (the Edelbrock TBI if that's what you have) ... I'd keep working at it. Can't get the extractor out? Did it break? That's why I avoid that style and go with the square style like Scooter mentioned. I say keep at it but use patience; you don't want a thermostat replacement to turn into an intake gasket job.

Richard

Yep extractor did break, I'm running out of options for doing it myself lol. It is a very pricey intake.

 

[JPVortex]

Definitely better advice.

As I said that intake is pricey. Currently the Edelbrock 3704 TBI intake is $500.

Richard

What if one of the intake bolts snap though?

 

[JPVortex]

Is this something you can weld a nut too? That’s my typical go to method if I can’t get vice grips on it.

Possibly, I dont have a welder though

 

[Scooterwrench]

Chances are a lot better that a manifold bolt won't break. The ones to be concerned with are the bolts at the water ports at the front and rear of the intake. Soak them with penetrating oil and don't try to just break them loose with one pull. Put some pressure on the bolts then stop and put opposite pressure on them. You may have to work them back and forth a few times to break them free. Many times they will break free but only turn a little before binding up again. When they bind stop. Hit them with the penetrating oil again and run them back in. Then repeat the process. Usually every time you back them out they will turn a little farther each time before binding. Keep working them in and out until they finally come out.
Stuck fasteners are a big PITA! The object is to not break the bolt to begin with.
When you get this thing fixed antisieze any bolt where water is present.

 

[Schurkey]

What if one of the intake bolts snap though?

Steel items threaded-into aluminum are notorious for seizing. Steel bolts, steel pipe plugs, steel coolant-temp sensor adapters all screwed into an aluminum casting can be trouble.

A steel bolt threaded into an iron cylinder head should be a piece of cake, unless it's holding the exhaust manifold. I wouldn't expect problems with an intake bolt. Some engines specify Loctite 242 (blue) medium-strength threadlocker on the intake bolts, but I don't think the TBI engines do.

The object is to not break the bolt to begin with.
When you get this thing fixed antisieze any bolt where water is present.

Quoted for truth.

When using anti-seize, you'll almost certainly want to reduce the torque spec by 10--20 percent due to the lubricant nature of anti-seize. Aluminum-based anti-seize is preferred for aluminum castings, and should be fine in iron as well.

 

[Hipster]

Yep extractor did break, I'm running out of options for doing it myself lol. It is a very pricey intake.

Have it machined possible, you're not going to be very successful drilling out broken tool steel. I always center punch a broken bolt and drill a 1/8 hole through it if possible. Then left handed drill bits in incremental sizes until almost nothing is left of the bolt. From the heat of drilling and penetrant sometimes you get lucky and the drill will pull the slug out.

 

[Schurkey]

That manifold is too valuable to abandon or ruin.

Put the engine at TDC-Compression of #1. Pull distributor after noting it's position. Remove block drain plug and knock sensor to drain coolant. Remove manifold, haul it to a machine shop or someone with experience at removing broken bolts.

Broken bolt removal is (usually) not that hard...if you've got the equipment to do it and some experience. MIG-welder, Oxy-Acetylene or Oxy-Propane torch, maybe an inductive heater. Reverse-twist drill bit(s), and so forth. A hyper-expensive EDM machine for the tougher jobs.

This may not be the project you want to "get" your experience on.

 

[JPVortex]

I agree guys. Off to the machine shop the manifold goes!

Pulled it off with no problems. Only thing I didnt do was mark the dizzy when coming out. It's at tdc right now and going back in whichever way the rotor is facing will be my number 1 spark plug wire.

Thanks guys!