So, I have a little more time and a laptop so I'll try and give it a shot at being complete.
Fuel:
Your gasser fuel pump isn't going to work with diesel fuel. It pressure is waaay too high for one thing and the diesel fuel is waaaaay too heavy for it to push for another. So the whole sender unit has to come out and a diesel fuel pickup has to go in. I "think" the tanks are the same between gasser and diesel on a burb, but don't quote me on that.
The DB2 pump requires a fuel pump that delivers about 8-10 psi. 10 PSi is the rated max. Diesel pumps are called "lift pumps". What they do is "lift" the heavier diesel to the injection pump. You can use an OEM one ( they have odd fitting for OEM fuel lines) or something like a walbro FRC-10 pump. Then you need a way to power it. It needs to turn on and off with the engine. The OBDI diesel truck uses the oil pressure switch and the OBDII trucks use the PCM to turn it on and off. Much more than 10-15 PSI will damage the seals on the injection pump.
You need a fuel filter. a diesel fuel filter. Something that filters down to 2-5 microns as a final filter. More than 5 microns can damage the injection pump. Not right away, but over time the precision clearances will become scored and worn with more than a 5 micron filter.
You need a water separator of some sort. Built into the filter manager on OEM diesels. Some people never see the WIF light, some see it all the time. Generally, diesel fuel is usually s in pretty good shape, but you never know when a slug of water is going to show up. If it makes it to the Injection pump, it's toast. I've never had a water problem, but I have drained water from my 30 micron primary filter before. I run a 30 micron prefilter and a 5 miron in the stock filter manager assembly. I also use a raptor 100 lift pump and 1/2 Eaton pushlok line from the tank to the filter manager. It's got enlarged braided stainless line from the filter manager to the Ds4 injection pump. My fuel system is not stock and it's not cheap. At least 700 bucks in it from tank to filter manager. But I've literally driven all over north america and have never had a problem with fuel because my system is robust enough to deal with water or "dirty" fuel. I have had to drain water of the separator bowl before (on the prefilter), but never had a clogged filter.
If you live somewhere that gets cold, you need a fuel heater. This is built into the OEM filter manager on OBDI/II trucks.
You can get a RACOR filter head that incorporates a fuel heater if you want. The filters can be be bought in diesel and have a water separator element.
Then there's the fuel lines themselves. I'm not sure if the gasser lines are big enough. The OEM diesels use 3/8" lines. Someone familiar with the gassers can chime in here.
The filler neck is also going to be too small. The gas neck opening is reduced and a diesel pump nozzle will not fit in it. A new neck or maybe a little careful work with some tin snips can fix this.
You will need a diesel fuel cap. The diesel cap is designed to let air into the tank and a gasser is designed to hold a vacuum on the tank. Has to do with the flash off of the fuel and emissions. I've seen a diesel fuel tank crushed because the wrong cap was used. Usually, it just leads to stalling since if you can't get air in, you can't get fuel out.
You need a return line, but the gasser one already in place should suffice. The diesel return fuel isn't very high flow.
You're going to want to run a lubricity additive with a DB2 pump. They were designed/built when Low Sulfur Diesel (LSD) came out. We are now running ULSD (ultra low sulfur) and as a consequence, the fuel is "dry". Fuel producers put additives into the fuel to compensate for the reduced lubricity, but it's still low for a DB2 that hasn't been rebuilt to ULSD specs. Upgraded DS4 pumps have specially hardened components (ceramic roller int he piston pumps, etc) but DB2 pumps do not unless they have been rebuilt at a Stanadyne authorized shop. Something like a Stanadyne lubricity additive will do. It will run without it, you just won't get the full life you could have out of it. This has to be added with EVERY fill up. Some people use two stroke oil and some use 30W ND (non detergent) oil. I would just use an approved product for lubricity if I were in your situ. My pump is the upgraded DS4 so I just run straight, clean diesel.
Guages:
None of the gassers guages will work. Without a ECM, the speedo won't work and the fuel gauge won't work. Without a spark plug coil, the tachometer won't work.
Cruise control is going to be a bear to try and get working. The VSS (vehicle speed sensor) feed to the ECm and the ECM sends the signals out to the speedo and cruise (abs also IIRC). But you don't have an ECM. The Diesel trucks don't use the ECm to drive the speedo, cruise and ABS but they use a VSSB (vehcile speed sensor buffer) that converts teh VSS signal to useable signal for the various components. You would have to make your own harness to use a DRAC/VSSB. Then you could install a diesel cluster and wire it to the DRAC/VSSB (DRAC - same function as a VSSB) to drive the speedo/ODO. Then you can probably create a harness to take the appropriate signal to the appropriate competent (IE: abs, cruise, etc). All these components use different signals by the way. The Cruise could be made to work if you were to use a cruise module from an OBDI truck (gasser or a DB2 pumped truck).
you could make a Diesel cluster tach work with the right field signal from the alternator.
The fuel gauge would work once you created a harness from the Diesel fuel pickup/sender assembly you had to install to handle the diesel now in the tank.
Oil pressure would work with the regular OIL pressure sender in the DB2 pumped engine block. Ditto with the coolant sender/gauge.
The DB2 engine will run as long as you wire the fuel shut off on the pump to 12V acc and have the starter hooked up to turn it over.
The gasser throttle pedal should work, but you may need to order a cable for a 92-93 DB2 truck.
Exhaust system needs to be a diesel one of course. Diamond eye can set you up from turbo to tail there.
The gasser radiator is not going to be able to deal with the heat load from the diesel in anything beside back and forth to work driving. If you're planning to load it down and/or tow, you need the diesel radiator. You also will need the diesel oil cooler and likely the separate transmission cooler.
Hooking up air conditioning is going to be a nightmare. The DB2 engine accessory drive puts the compressor on the passenger side, the gasser and 96+ diesel trucks locate it on the drivers side. Add in the further complication is you have a burb with rear AC plumbing. You can probably work it out, but it's going to be a major PITA. If it we me, I would probably find a complete 96+ diesel front accessory drive (ie: brackets, drives, betls, pulleys, etc) and swap that on. That would likely be the easiest way out rather than trying to butcher up and AC system that worked.
The transfer case is easy if you have the lever style. A little more complex if you have the push button style since it needs the VSS signal. If you're a 2wd, no worries at all.
You're biggest headaches are comming from the fact you're putting a diesel in a later model OBDII gasser. Outside of the body, interior upholstery and running gear hard parts, they're almost completely different trucks and nothing interchanges. Fuel, cooling, airconditioning, electrical, etc... all radically different.
I can't even begin to guess how the BCM is going to behave once this is all done. However, I can't think of anything it's going to be controlling other than the dome light dimming so it may not care about all the missing signals/inputs. Or it might not make any difference if it does try and kick up a fuss.
I'm not trying dissuade you or bum you out and I'll give you whatever help I can if you decide to push ahead, but this just has "nightmare" written all over it.
If I were to give you my opinion on how to proceed, I would suggest you first look to buy up a 6.5 truck/burb with a blown engine (preferably a 96+ diesel 'burb, although they are much much harder to come by) . That would get you all the parts pieces, wiring harness and all the little bits that will "nickle and dime" you to death on this sort of thing. Make it a 96+ truck at least so you get the accessory drive you will need. A parts truck will also give you a basic example of what to build on your burb. In some places, a straight swap over.
Blown 6.5 trucks go cheap (lots of 'em around since they break/frustrate owners ALOT) and you can get them for around 1,000 bucks or less. Then I would part it beside the 'burb and start swapping/splicing parts into the burb as required.
That's about all for the moment. My finger are getting a little tender from typing and my brain is mushy. If I think of more later I'll post it up.
Cheers.
