Changing CV axle

[scott_williams2]

Ok so I have a 95 z71 with lever 4x4. My driver side axle is bad and I got the part to replace it. My question is how hard a job is it and what’s the best way to do it. Is there anyway to avoid messing my alignment up because I just got it aligned a few months ago and really don’t wanna have to pay to get it redone

 

[454cid]

It doesn't affect your alignment at all.

Make sure you cover the lower shock mount with something heavy so that you don't rip boot on it.

 

[grampadirt]

Did both axles on wifey's Burb in an afternoon,not hard,maybe a little messy from all the far flung grease from the torn boots.

 

[smdk2500]

Hardest part is getting the outer nut off depending on how crusty it is. What ive done in the past is spray it a few days in advance with penetrating oil. When you go to break it loose leave the truck on the ground and in park or gear. Get it broke loost then jack it up and proceed with removal. Easiest way is in my opinion is remove wheel brakes and wheel bearing. Ive heard of people just taking the nut off and the bolts off an turning the wheel and working it out that way.

 

[454cid]

Hardest part is getting the outer nut off depending on how crusty it is. What ive done in the past is spray it a few days in advance with penetrating oil. When you go to break it loose leave the truck on the ground and in park or gear. Get it broke loost then jack it up and proceed with removal. Easiest way is in my opinion is remove wheel brakes and wheel bearing. Ive heard of people just taking the nut off and the bolts off an turning the wheel and working it out that way.

No don't remove the hubs. That's way more work. Unbolt the lower shock mount, and adjust the angle of the lower control arm with a floor jack, until you have enough room to compress the CV axle and drop the flange end down, and then the whole CV axle slides towards the center of the truck and it's out.

I think the anti-roll bar link needs to be removed too, but it's been awhile since I've done it. I do have a CV axle sitting waiting to be installed, Though.

 

[smdk2500]

No don't remove the hubs. That's way more work. Unbolt the lower shock mount, and adjust the angle of the lower control arm with a floor jack, until you have enough room to compress the CV axle and drop the flange end down, and then the whole CV axle slides towards the center of the truck and it's out.

I think the anti-roll bar link needs to be removed too, but it's been awhile since I've done it. I do have a CV axle sitting waiting to be installed, Though.

Ive tried doing it that way and have had nothing but problems. It might just be me though. I wish that the easier way would work for me.

 

[454cid]

Ive tried doing it that way and have had nothing but problems. It might just be me though. I wish that the easier way would work for me.

Is there a particular step you have issue with? The anti-roll bar links can be hard to remove. I've cut them before since they tend to rust up, and they're cheap to replace.

 

[smdk2500]

Is there a particular step you have issue with? The anti-roll bar links can be hard to remove. I've cut them before since they tend to rust up, and they're cheap to replace.

Its been quite a while since ive done one on a gmt400 so i don't remember. The last one ive done was on a gmt900 but i had it all apart doing ball joints, tie rods and brakes so i had every thing out of the way already

 

[shorepatrol]

Remove the sway bar link, no need to remove the bottom shock but it makes it easier

 

[Bodageta1995]

It’s pretty easy. Sway bar end link is a pain though. Spray the fasteners in advance with penetrating oil. If you live in the south like I do probably no issues with the fastener removal but if in snow country corrosion may be your enemy. Take note of the clearance in your sway bar end link to upper control arm before removal and maybe even take some photos so you don’t question less clearance after installed. FYI, I purchased CVJ axles from Rock Auto for $44 each and have about 2000 miles on them now and they seem fine. Crazy cheap. Cardon brand I think it was. I didn’t pay for the heavy duty. The flange where it bolts to the center diff had reliefs cut between the bolts so it wasn’t as beefy as the OEM so maybe that’s the difference but works fine. I agree, no effect to alignment