Can anyone identify this loud tapping after fuel hydrolock?

[fancyTBI]

Pull-A-Part. If you're near OKC, they sell short blocks every other weekend for $150. The alternating weekend they sell complete engines for $250.

Dang and I thought my local scrap yard was good with half price Wednesdays and $80 all you can carry days. They never have deals on engines like that.

 

[Hipster]

Even good exhaust logs can do really bad things if you rev it trying to scare/impress girls when your in high school. Never neutral rev a boat!!!

gulp, gulp. bang lol

 

[zzyzx]

So where would one get an oem connecting rod, piston, race, and rings?

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[Hipster]

sombody else just went through a situation they nneded one, You used to be able to order a single remanned rod through Napa along with a single piston and a single ring pack or source one out a used engine and just get a new ring pack for it and deglaze that cylinder. I would pull that rod out a look around a bit better for block damage or a split cylinder wall before worrying about parts.

 

[Schurkey]

So where would one get an oem connecting rod, piston, race, and rings?

Race???

The local Treasure Yard would be a one-stop shopping center.

 

[zzyzx]

Connecting rods use bearing races right? I'll figure it out. I'm new to bottom end work beside some work on bikes.

I've been working on getting the head off.

I see used pistons and conrods on ebay. But they look crusty. And ebay is what got me into this mess. I might end up going that route. I don't have a press or many other tools for pistons. I need to pick up a bore gauge to confirm the cylinder size and maybe one of those fancy micrometers. Plus gaskets.

 

[Schurkey]

"Races" are used with roller bearings. Inner race, outer race, the roller elements (balls, tapered rollers, non-tapered rollers) ride on the races.

Automotive crankshafts use plain bearings--no roller elements. Therefore, no races. Automotive cranks use a steel insert that's plated with various soft-metal linings--lead, aluminum, copper, tin. The soft metals ride directly on the iron or steel of the crankshaft. The steel backing of the bearing is held in place by getting clamped between the main cap and block, or between the rod cap and rod body.

Ring-ding engines often use roller bearings, lubed with the oil mixed into the fuel--and into the 1980s some four-stroke bikes had roller-bearing cranks. I'm sure a guy could research and find some examples of automotive four-strokes with roller bearings...but that'd be really unusual, and certainly not on Chevy/Ford/Chrysler/AMC.

"I" would not buy a used connecting rod/piston assembly from eBay. I'd go directly to a friendly Treasure Yard, and pick the rod/piston assembly directly from a suitable core engine. Choose wisely, and you wouldn't even need new rings or a bearing. (Both a ring set and a fresh bearing are recommended, but likely not essential.) You're looking for a relatively low-mileage engine that's clean inside but scrapped for some other problem--an issue with a different cylinder, perhaps.

 

[zzyzx]

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[zzyzx]

Cylinder wall looks and feels nice and smooth. Crank where the piston contacted looks fine. Like someone took a silver crayon to it.

 

[XJPhoenix]

Ouch! My condolences.

The shiny spot on the piston skirt, is that from the counterweight rubbing it?