Broken cab mount bolt question

[454ss]

I tried the energy suspension body bushings and replaced them with new stock ones. they were squishy and did not offer good support.

 

[shortchevy]

I don't have a crew cab, but I'm not understanding what the problem is here exactly.? Did you snap the bolt off or was the cab mount so rusty it fell apart? You should go get new hardware and order energy suspension body bushing kit. Once you get the mount off with a dead blow you will see the bolt hole in the bottom of the cab it just has a big nut welded on the inside that the long bolt threads into. I can't see needing to get access from the interior for any reason.

I understand what's going on now I re read this. I think you should cut the piece that's pointed flat and use an easy out with a map gas blow torch. If that doesn't work I would drill it out and re thread the hole. It wouldn't be hard to modify the mount plates to take a slightly bigger bolt.

the head of the bolt snapped, and there is not enough hanging down to grab with a vice-grip. I want to get to the top so I can drill it out and replace the bolt. if I drill from the bottom I would have to drill through 3 inches of bolt. if I drill from the top I only have to drill though maybe an inch. I will prolly just drill it out and use a bolt and lock nut. I refuse to use polyurethane bushings... theyre too stiff and in my experience they make way to much noice. the rubber looks to be in excellent shape anyways. thanks for the ideas though

 

[rustynuts57]

also remember to heat the bolt under that tin plate to help soften the loctite. I used a propane torch held on there for 4-5 minutes.
I had to drill new access holes to access the rear cab bolts. Tin plate was just on the front mounts.

 

[thisoldcamper]

I found out the hard way that an impact wrench can pop the welded nut loose. I removed the tool/jack box from behind the seat (13mm bolt behind driver, threaded rod in jack box) pulled the carpet back and used my trusty chisel to cut the goop sealing the plate. Once that peeled off, there were four tangs holding the plate on - pry the plate off and there you have it.
This was on a 1988 regular cab.

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[5spd Z71]

I just did this, and I tried using an impact to break the nut loose... didn't work. I had to use a grinder to pop two of the tacks on the nut before I could break it loose.

On a side note, how tight should those body bolts be? I got em pretty snug, but didn't tighten the crap out of em.

 

[thisoldcamper]

double post please delete

 

[thisoldcamper]

Just curious, why were you trying to get the welded nut off?
The Chiltons book that I bought in 1990 says torque the cab mount bushing bolt to 55 foot pounds.

 

[5spd Z71]

Because there was no way I was getting this bolt out.

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Replaced it with a locking nut and tightened it up. I don't think I have em at 55ft-lbs but it's pretty tight.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[Jeff7]

Hey I just had a similar thing happen in my extended cab, does anyone know if this access plate is in ext cabs too? I have a custom sub box so I don't want to pull it all out just to find out there isn't one there. Thanks.