Bogs at wot

[phule]

I would guess your bushings are bad. Someone had mentioned that above

 

[jdyates]

I would guess your bushings are bad. Someone had mentioned that above

I just asked my dad and he told me a little rotation in the rotor is okay, and its side-to-side on the whole distributor that is bad. My rotor spins a lot if i just turn it with my fingers.

 

[phule]

Oh my mistake I though you had side to side....also drumroll please...........just got back from my test drive and.................................................I'm going to kill it with fire no change. No improvement nothing zip zero mada so pay day ill replace the fuel filter see if that changes anything. I'm beat my fellow 400 owners I don't know what to check next

 

[magimerlin]

Fuel filters are cheap and easy to replace. Wouldn't hurt to try it.

Have you had your ignition control module tested yet by chance?? Most of the parts stores can do it these days.. Easy to get to... right under the cap and rotor. If it test good, test it a few more time.. Make sure that they are tapping(not slamming on it but a light tap) on it as they are testing it. If it is indeed good do not forget to get the heat transfer goop/gel that is needed under the ignition control module when you go and put it back in. Do not let them tell you it is not needed...It is.. A new icm will 99% of the time have a little package with it in there.

I had an bog that would happen when it pleased... No schedule no warning. I threw parts and rebuilt like there was no tomorrow to no avail... Wanna know my end fix... So dumb of me not to look at them too..... Check your grounds... Should be one from the battery to the block, battery to fender, firewall to frame, and firewall to block... The one between the block and firewall on mine broke(dam braided crap)... So all the truck grounds where relying on one 18gauge wire that was from the battery to the fender and nothing from the main ground that was on the motor.. Keep in mind that the battery to block is isolated as the motor and transmission are held in place with rubber mounts..... So I said what the heck I have the tools so I made all new cables... 2 gauge main cables(positive to starter and ground to block) and used 4gauge for the others(rest of the grounds and from the alternator to the battery) No more issues with the bog...

 

[phule]

Ive check grounds everything looks solid. My early morning question of the day is could it be possible to have a partial clogged filter that would impede flow at wot? The reason I ask and I'm gonna double check later my initial diagnosis was a loss of fuel pressure at wot I deadheaded pressure and it didn't change so I suspected a bad pump. Afterwards pressure was better and rose when deadheaded. Problem was still there. Suspect was a regulater replaced rock solid 14 psi at idle but still drops at wot.

 

[magimerlin]

It is possible. If you ran the rank almost empty a lot you could have picked up a bunch of junk. The added pressure/volume needed at wot could stir it up in the filter and clog it till it settles down. Long shot but possible. I've only seen it once and that had a nasty nasty tank we found out, lots of rust.

 

[magimerlin]

Have you rechecked your map sensor again? Check for a good voltage, signal, and ground there to. Your reading if my memory serves me right is low. The map sensor senses engine load and will effect fuel deliver if bad.

 

[phule]

Ill do a double check of the map. Thanks

 

[jdyates]

Have you rechecked your map sensor again? Check for a good voltage, signal, and ground there to. Your reading if my memory serves me right is low. The map sensor senses engine load and will effect fuel deliver if bad.

Mine went as low as 7.3 last time i had it hooked up to a snap-on scanner and it was fluctuating like crazy. No vacuum, intake, or head leaks.

 

[phule]

I tested it per alldata and it tested within spec. At idle wwith 10hg draw from a hand pump it was at 2.86 rock steady. So looks like im trying a fuel filter.