Amp Troubleshooting Needed (PICS)

[df2x4]

That's got me thinking. You said that the truck sat for a few months with no battery connected, so chances are the head unit has lost all of it's previous settings. Most newer ones have a memory function but in my experience it's never really good for more than a few days. You could look through your settings and make sure there's no way to toggle the subwoofer function on and off, or a way to toggle those rear outputs on your head units to sub outputs instead. I doubt this is actually the problem though, I believe that all head units will always send a turn on signal over the remote wire when they are powered on regardless of settings. It wouldn't make sense to disable the remote signal just because you didn't have subs enabled. If that were the case you couldn't run an amp for a nicer set of front speakers, etc. I also would not worry about the faceplate. If you test the remote wire and it has power from the head unit, then my next suggestion would be to trace your amp's ground connection. My money is still on the remote wire, though.

 

[HighRollerRich]

okay thanks.

I did notice that when the face plate is removed, you can see a tiny tiny button on the stereo that says "RESET" its probably no bigger in diameter than a mechanical pencil.

I have no manual for the head unit. It's an old unit, i bought it only because it had an AUX output (for iphone/ipod cable) on the faceplate, which was rare at the time.

 

[df2x4]

No problem, and yeah that's the factory reset switch. They make it hard to press because it does the exact same thing that your extended battery pull did, brings all your settings back to factory default. The only time I've used one of those on a head unit is when I'm swapping a used one into a different vehicle. Good way to make a clean start in that situation. You could try it if you really want to but I'm 99% sure it won't fix your issue, plus just keep in mind that you'd have to program all your settings in again.

 

[HighRollerRich]

Update. No power from REM line at amp. Power and ground wire are good. We turned on amp by jumping power wire to rem wire at amp.




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[great white]

keep in mind the remote amp turn n is only going to have around 500 Ma on it.

Wire nuts......ugh.

Your chum didn't do you any favors there.....

 

[HighRollerRich]

Amp and subs work if we put a wire to jump between power wire and rem terminal at amp. That means it's not a settings problem with head unit. And we tested and found there is no problem with voltage in wiring from head unit to end of rem. The head unit is not outputting power to rem wire.


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[great white]

Amp and subs work if we put a wire to jump between power wire and rem terminal at amp. That means it's not a settings problem with head unit. And we tested and found there is no problem with voltage in wiring from head unit to end of rem. The head unit is not outputting power to rem wire.


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You need to meter it.

The remote on the amp only requires 500Ma and that's all most remote out wires have on them from the head unit.

A test lamp won't work if that's what you are using. You need a multimeter.

 

[HighRollerRich]

I was using a multimeter. Nothing.

 

[HighRollerRich]

We had the multimeter out and used the positive lead on the terminal where the rem wire connects to and the neg lead grounded out. Nothing. I'll try resetting the head unit but it looks like the head unit is bad, which is weird cuz all other functions on it work.

 

[aaronb]

check and make sure there isn't a spot in the remote wire that has rubbed through and is grounding itself out on the chassis. I had that problem recently.