Aftermarket Projector headlights.. LED RIM flickering/NO low beam HELP

[great white]

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Like I mentioned: personal opinion and no offense intended but I don't like 'em and neither do the Joes I hang with.

Let's not turn this into a "beemer light fight" thread now.....

 

[justin93]

Well, you have a wiring issue (unlikely if all you did was plug in to the oem harness) or (more likely given the discrepancies already noted with the seller and the product) piece of crap cheapo lights.....

My advice?

Pull 'em, chuck 'em and go buy something worth your money.

Also (and this is just my personal opinion) "halo/beemer" lights look dumb on these trucks. Not trying to offend anyone, just my personal opinion. If you like 'em that's cool, but I'm still gonna point and laugh with my brochacos as you drive by....

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And ill be zooming right past you flicking my attractive 'whistle call' at how cute you and all your brochachos are


Just kidding but back on topic:

No but it was an earlier investment i made on the truck back in 2011, didn't quite see where the build was going to go aesthetically as it was a truck and it was my main objective to get everything mechanically in tune and up to date.

I went from cracked taped lights to those, certainly an upgrade and i would take projectors over any fancy/aesthetically pleasing stock style headlight anyday.

As far as chucking these, i spent almost 100$ on these lights. visibility EXCEEDS SO MUCH over stock cruddy lights.
They look blank, they yellow in color over time. and im not a big fan of chrome housings as everyone and there mother has those.
I've never seen them on an obs before so i figured i'd give it a try. These projectors worked phenomenally specially compared to the stockers, at least while they worked.
however going back to stock or even fabricating a modded projector light housing isn't in my budget for this build. The goal is to FIX the issue or at least assess the problem whether fixable or not.

Projector lights were for my safety and visibility on/off road. i couldn't see a darn thing with my stockers even new bulbs didn't make a difference.
Projector lights with those 'halogen' bulbs was as close to 'halo/beemer' as i could get if your looking at it in that sense.
To each there own, but im more of a repair it if able to rather than toss more money out my a$$ kind of person.


I will get pictures of the back of the headlight housing and the connection of them, im 99% sure that they were connected to OEM wiring harness - i will take pictures after work.

The Halogen bulbs located in the link are the only lights that still work, it's the regular driving lights that aren't working anymore. I'll upload a video and show you in dash and outside view of what happens when i try to switch from hi to normal driving lights.

Aesthetically, they are what they are.
Functionally, Can they be fixed?

I haven't looked into the actual led unit in the light housing nor do i know which led bulb it takes, but its all encased so im unsure of how it can be repaired.

As said, i will upload pictures when im off work
appreciate all your responses very much, and am open to all advice and suggestions.

 

[great white]

Ah, got it.

You're the steering problem guy.

Carry on.....

 

[bluex]

You can start by checking the ground for the headlights.

If you have actual hids in the lows you could possibly need an HD harness to help them get all the power they need. It's true they draw less running current than halogens, but they require much more to light off the bulbs an warm them up.

Where/what are the halos wired into? This could go back to a bad ground as well.

The electrical short noise you hear could be your headlight switch, the hid lows need a lot of startup current like I said. All the power for the headlights on these trucks goes through the headlight switch an dimmer. The extra power needed has been known to fry a headlight switch. I have a few used headlight switches if you want to try another one. I know they work an I'll sell them cheap....

Edit: if you can pull on the column an cause a different issue it might all be in your multi function switch though. It could be that something in there is broken an not giving power back to the lows when you switch the high beams off....

 

[justin93]

You can start by checking the ground for the headlights.

If you have actual hids in the lows you could possibly need an HD harness to help them get all the power they need. It's true they draw less running current than halogens, but they require much more to light off the bulbs an warm them up.

Where/what are the halos wired into? This could go back to a bad ground as well.

The electrical short noise you hear could be your headlight switch, the hid lows need a lot of startup current like I said. All the power for the headlights on these trucks goes through the headlight switch an dimmer. The extra power needed has been known to fry a headlight switch. I have a few used headlight switches if you want to try another one. I know they work an I'll sell them cheap....

Edit: if you can pull on the column an cause a different issue it might all be in your multi function switch though. It could be that something in there is broken an not giving power back to the lows when you switch the high beams off....

Im running stock brand new bulbs for the lows - i don't know if the connection in the image i posted was for HD or factory wiring harness

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I'm unsure of where the leds are wired into but i will check the grounds when i get home and take some pictures.

As far as HID goes these are only projector lights with Halogen bulbs for the high beams.

All the power goes through the scroll switch and the light switches on the left panel ? I might have to check the connection there.. and as far as my multi-function switch in the collumn this sounds like something that could be possible as my windshield wipers move but the fluid motor wont spray the wiper fluid.. Should i check for there Voltage?

Great questions Bluex appreciate the responses

 

[Half Assed]

The projector has nothing to do with HID or halogen, it's just a type of headlight design.

If you replaced the bulbs the next thing to check is for voltage at the plug and the grounds.

If no voltage at the plug, check for voltage going into and out of the switch.

 

[bluex]

Ok if you don't have any true hid at all an still have all halogen bulbs then the HD harness isn't needed, though it will help the halogen bulbs get 100% power an work as best they can.

I would still check how/where those leds are hooked up as it looks like you have to make that connection yourself. Did you install these lights or did someone else?

I'm still leaning towards the multi function switch though, but definitely check to see where exactly your losing power before throwing parts at it.

 

[justin93]

Ok if you don't have any true hid at all an still have all halogen bulbs then the HD harness isn't needed, though it will help the halogen bulbs get 100% power an work as best they can.

I would still check how/where those leds are hooked up as it looks like you have to make that connection yourself. Did you install these lights or did someone else?

I'm still leaning towards the multi function switch though, but definitely check to see where exactly your losing power before throwing parts at it.

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The connection was shorted due to the LED wiring. The LED Ring was also claimed defected.

I went with the closer to stock style lights no LED's no projector lights or HID's just standard driving lights.
Also put in 6k HID system for the ARB Fog lights and converted most the vehicle to LED's.

I personally think the lights go better with the truck but the other lights made it standout. Either or, these ones are functional and I took out the whole wiring mess from the old one and plugged these one's in and they operate perfectly. I did also change out my instrument panel light switch while i replaced my lights because it was smoking/shorting out while trying to use the normal driving lights.

Regeared the truck, new eaton posi, Put a new bigger wheel set on, installed a full system with blue tooth, navigation and infrared camera.

The light emitted from these are decent but does anyone have any other suggestions other then HID's ? I don't want to seem like a ricer and have HID's on my normal driving lights thats idiotic and i'd hate to be the person in front of them so i moved the only HID's to the ARB bumper and only run when i have the high beams on.
For the Low beam headlights, are there any clearer or well illuminating bulbs anyone's used? Not trying to blind anyone but am trying to see wider peripheral view .

And if anyone has any good information about installing cab lights, i'd love to see some personal pictures and experiences. I've read a few threads but i'm unsure which light kit would retain the best 'seal'. I don't want to have water pooring down my headliner, and by the time these cab lights get put on i will be also removing the headliner and refinishing that as well.

Main question: Best cab light setup for a 93' K15 with best seal. OEM or aftermarket? I was looking for the 5 piece kit that is the same ones from the 2500 gmt's but what do you guys think?.. I was just going to lightly vht coat them like my corner lenses but wanted to also install some LED's and don't know what size they are.

 

[Half Assed]

The new lights look great and the truck. Sylvania makes some ultra white something or another bulbs that will work.

 

[sewlow]

Just being 'The Devil's Advocate' here!

HID kits are illegal, unsafe, and ineffective. They are unsafe and ineffective because headlamps designed for filament light sources do not work with arc-discharge light sources, as a filament has a single hotspot centered on a filament; arc-discharge light sources have two hot spots separated by a less-hot arc-shaped light source. This results in poor beam focus and excessive glare for other traffic.
Assuming your truck has adequate bulb shielding for its 9006 low beams, you may be able to replace your 9005 and 9006 bulbs with HIR type 9011 and 9012 bulbs, delivering more light at exactly the same wattage.
Contact MeanGreen (Barron) for his HD lighting harness.
Or, make you're own.
If you have a friend who has done some automotive wiring, perhaps he'll help you lay it out for your first time. The idea of using a tiny bit of power from your stock wiring to control a load switching relay which supplies your lights from a separate more than adequately wired heavy duty circuit is pretty basic. Once you've done it, it will seem simple.
Putting non-filament bulbs in a piece of regulated vehicle lighting equipment that was designed and certified to be compliant to the regulations using the filament bulb that it was designed to use is illegal.
"Why are blue-tinted halogens bad?"
Because blue-tinted halogen bulbs remove yellow light to pretend that they are blue. Halogens produce lots of yellow-tinted white light, and cutting out that yellow greatly reduces output (And increases bulb envelope temperature).
Note that it is possible to have acceptable output from a blue-tinted bulb. But it requires more power and increases your bulb replacement rates. You can find all sorts of examples of bluer light causing worse glare. One possible reason is that blue photons cue your pupils to contract, so excess blue photons make your eyes overcontract, making everything look dimmer.
Well we know that the human eye see's certain primary colors more predominantly than other colors. Whether it is pyscological or fact, most (not everyone) does not like light were the hue is too far off of what "pure white" is. I will admit I hate really blue lights and really yellow lights (both ends of the spectrum).
Yellow visually makes things in the distance when driving appear to have more shadows. Blue on the other hand is less sensitive to the eye such that the bluer the light is, the less distance you can see. That supports the fact that blue light takes more power to make the eye see it.
So then how do you define a "pure white" with no cast, no hue, etc. in regards to lights in your head lamps? Think about it. unless we work third shift, humans pretty much live when the ambient light is daylight. The changing of the color/hue, etc of the light signals the start of day and end of day.
Having headlights that output a color of light that represents the middle of the day on a bright, sunny day would be ideal for less eye fatique.
White light also contains all the colors, so light loss by dropping yellow or adding blue would not exist.... It is white, period.
My experience is that poorly wired or poor-condition halogens give "muddy" light. Good-condition ones give crisp, clean white light. The condition of your optics and light source are vital, and being a volt short at the filament makes an ugly, unsafe beam pattern. However, replacing an inadequate (undervolted, old housing) lamp with another inadequate one isn't the way to proceed.

Nothing personal to all you HID guys. Just throwing info out there.