AC Compressor issue

[someotherguy]

Your clutch appears to be engaging just fine. A bearing going bad won't cause poor cooling.

Richard

 

[glendayle]

Your clutch appears to be engaging just fine. A bearing going bad won't cause poor cooling.

Richard

OK that is good to know. That's what I would have thought. It does cool, but just a little bit. So that leads me back to thinking it's a low refrigerant issue. I guess I'll have to swing by "my guy"s shop.

 

[someotherguy]

I can understand your optimism, nobody really likes having A/C problems. But what I'm saying is the compressor is probably bad.

Richard

 

[glendayle]

I can understand your optimism, nobody really likes having A/C problems. But what I'm saying is the compressor is probably bad.

Richard

Yeah, I think I'm accepting that. AND I do have a guy that does some side work. I just swung by and he said that it is indeed the internal components of the compressor. SO I guess I'll be replacing the compressor, accumulator, and oriface tube. Is there anything else I have to replace at the same time? I suppose the good news is that my guy will pull the refrigerant and then recharge it when I'm done. He charges me a little bit, but $50 seems pretty decent to me.

 

[SAATR]

Yeah, I think I'm accepting that. AND I do have a guy that does some side work. I just swung by and he said that it is indeed the internal components of the compressor. SO I guess I'll be replacing the compressor, accumulator, and oriface tube. Is there anything else I have to replace at the same time? I suppose the good news is that my guy will pull the refrigerant and then recharge it when I'm done. He charges me a little bit, but $50 seems pretty decent to me.

Condenser and flush the lines. Once the compressor has failed, especially internally, there will be debris in the system. The orifice tube will tell the tale. If it's anything but perfectly clean, then there is crap sitting in the condenser and you can't effectively flush a serpentine or parallel flow condenser. Replace it, flush the hoses and evap, replace what you mentioned, put in the correct oil charge, and charge it to spec.

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[Cokeman95]

Do the lines get seized on the condenser very often? I'm about to do my ac and am wondering if I'll need new lines.

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[SAATR]

Do the lines get seized on the condenser very often? I'm about to do my ac and am wondering if I'll need new lines.

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Yes, they do often seize. It's usually the condenser itself that is damaged, because the nut on the line is steel, and the condenser fittings are aluminum. Heating the fitting with a heat gun and soaking them in penetrating oil can help. A small pipe wrench on the condenser side of the fitting will grip it enough to allow you to remove the nut, if all else fails. Condenser should be replaced anyway, so it's not a loss.

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[glendayle]

Any specific process to flushing the lines? I figure if I have everything apart it should be pretty easy, but I guess I don't feel like I should put any water through them.

 

[SAATR]

There are AC specific flushes available. An AC shop will have a flush gun to force the solvent through the system, which you then have to blow out with clean, dry air or compressed nitrogen.

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[someotherguy]

Trying to get inside the threads with some PB Blaster as mentioned, and I use a pair of good quality adjustable wrenches so that I've got a backup wrench. Tighten them as much as possible onto the nuts, clock them to where they're slightly apart from each other and then use one hand to squeeze them towards each other; this will very often break loose a stubborn coupling nut without damaging the tube. The one-hand method gives you a lot of control over how much pressure to apply and being able to stop quickly if you sense trouble. Obviously you want to exert the movement of your squeezing motion towards the actual nut that moves, and not the nut-shaped portion of the tube that is stationary (backup wrench.)

Richard