98 2d 2wd hoe--How much drop before a c notch is required?

[paramedicopace]

Oh my! I do believe i found my next family hauler!! To craigslist!!!


Seriously that truck looks amazing!

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Well I thank you sir. Everyone where I live has a lifted 4x4 as there daily. I'm going against the grain and getting way better mileage in doing so. The stereo is going in this week and lowering the rear another inch or may be two. Will keep the pics flowing.


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[Luckychucky]

With a 4/4 drop it will have some rake to it. Usually a 4/6 will get it level. Once you go 6" in the rear though the axle is very close to the frame and a notch is a good idea. You could cut the frame and use 5" or 6" round pipe cut in half as the notch and still maintain strength and save some$$$. The 22s will be stuffed a little and some "hammer" clearance may need to be implemented. Or mini tub if you can. My backspace in 4.5 rear and 4.0 front. This can get tricky when dropping and maintaining clearance.


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Ok thanks so much for the reply. So if a wheel has 30mm offset like the ones I want (9.5" wide") so that's a backspace of about 6" right? Maybe I'm just confused lol

If I run a 20, I just want to keep the wheels inside the line of the fenders. Thanks again for all the help, it's nice to have a little help with the Tahoe. I've always been a Squarebody guy. I just finished an 86

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[paramedicopace]

That is a sick square body. Those are my true loves. I've got a 88 one ton crew cab on 39's and 10" lift. Have a 12 valve and a Allison 6 speed for it just need to button up my Hoe then on to my Reno redneck truck[emoji389][emoji389][emoji389]. Anyways with 30mm offset that will just push the whole wheel further out towards the fender. Backspace is already set in the wheel and will determine how much lip and where the center of the wheel is going to sit. The more offset, the more meat between the brake drum/rotor mounting thickness of the wheel. They machine most wheels down to the specific +/- offset on the part of the wheel that mates to the drum/rotor. On mine I have 0 offset up front and +12 in rear. With 0 up front it's a pain to get the center caps on without hitting the rotor bearing cap because of less material on the wheel. But this has set to be perfect on putting my wheels right where I want them in correlation to the fenders. To bad you just can't buy a set of wheels and tires and put them on and if it's not what you want, return them and try another set. Hope that makes sense.


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[Luckychucky]

That is a sick square body. Those are my true loves. I've got a 88 one ton crew cab on 39's and 10" lift. Have a 12 valve and a Allison 6 speed for it just need to button up my Hoe then on to my Reno redneck truck[emoji389][emoji389][emoji389]. Anyways with 30mm offset that will just push the whole wheel further out towards the fender. Backspace is already set in the wheel and will determine how much lip and where the center of the wheel is going to sit. The more offset, the more meat between the brake drum/rotor mounting thickness of the wheel. They machine most wheels down to the specific +/- offset on the part of the wheel that mates to the drum/rotor. On mine I have 0 offset up front and +12 in rear. With 0 up front it's a pain to get the center caps on without hitting the rotor bearing cap because of less material on the wheel. But this has set to be perfect on putting my wheels right where I want them in correlation to the fenders. To bad you just can't buy a set of wheels and tires and put them on and if it's not what you want, return them and try another set. Hope that makes sense.


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Thanks I appreciate it. I'm about to sell the c10 and start on the Tahoe I think. I have an 88 suburban that was a funeral home hearse that I just picked up. I having a new interior out in it right now, thinking about keeping it as my toe rig

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Also have an 89 k5 lol I'm sorta a square body addict

 

[Luckychucky]

That is a sick square body. Those are my true loves. I've got a 88 one ton crew cab on 39's and 10" lift. Have a 12 valve and a Allison 6 speed for it just need to button up my Hoe then on to my Reno redneck truck[emoji389][emoji389][emoji389]. Anyways with 30mm offset that will just push the whole wheel further out towards the fender. Backspace is already set in the wheel and will determine how much lip and where the center of the wheel is going to sit. The more offset, the more meat between the brake drum/rotor mounting thickness of the wheel. They machine most wheels down to the specific +/- offset on the part of the wheel that mates to the drum/rotor. On mine I have 0 offset up front and +12 in rear. With 0 up front it's a pain to get the center caps on without hitting the rotor bearing cap because of less material on the wheel. But this has set to be perfect on putting my wheels right where I want them in correlation to the fenders. To bad you just can't buy a set of wheels and tires and put them on and if it's not what you want, return them and try another set. Hope that makes sense.


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But anyways, thanks for the all the help so far. I've tried finding the offset listed for the 20x9.5 dub baller wheels but no site seems to have it listed. They just show the 30mm offset :/ I'd hate to it them and have them not fit or stick out too far lol

 

[Luckychucky]

Here's a pic of my k5

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[paramedicopace]

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No the best of it but here's mine.


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[Luckychucky]

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No the best of it but here's mine.


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Heck yeah, that looks slick.

I did call the Dub manufacturer yesterday, and they told me that particular wheel didn't have an aggressive enough offset that I would need for my truck. Does that sound right? He said the 20mm offset on the 9.5" wheel wasn't enough. Allegedly, I need between an 8 to 17mm offset, but they don't offer that. Something about how it wouldn't clear the hubs....something just doesn't seem right about that. It's a 20" wheel that's almost ten inches wide