Yeah, I don't think the booster is bad (aside from being ya know... junk from the factory, but if it is actually bad, I'm going to upgrade it to the hydroboost system), since the brakes work well enough to bust all the lines, I am now replacing. But of course the rear bleeders are completely rusted, so I get to deal with that, and locking lugs, that are rounded out inside, so the key won't take em out, so gonna have to destructively remove them, to get to the bleeder well enough to hopefully clean them up enough, so I can actually bleed the rears. Not gonna worry about that though, until I get the front lines done, since the lines coming off the ABS module are rusted through. All the lines are being re-done with NiCu lines, so they don't rust out, with brass fittings. Don't currently live in a place with lots of ice and salt in the winter, but will probably move back to upper midwest.
96 k1500 sitting for half a decade, need recommendations
- Thread starter Saren42
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There is *always* another problem with this truck, I swear. Now I'm getting a no crank issue. If I jump 12v to the solenoid it cranks, I've checked the wire all the way back to the underhood relay panel, swapped the relay with a known good relay, and checked back to neutral safety switch. I'm basically down to 2 possible problem issues. The ignition switch or the neutral safety switch. Going to try bypassing the neutral safety switch when I go out next to see if that will allow it to crank, if it still doesn't, then it seems my ignition switch is to blame.
*sigh* I wish I had unlimited money to just throw into this, and do a full tear down and rebuild/restomod of the truck.
*sigh* I wish I had unlimited money to just throw into this, and do a full tear down and rebuild/restomod of the truck.
Greetings Saren42,
Don't know if your Alldata subscription you mentioned in reply #19 has run out or not,
but I went ahead and extracted the wiring diagram for the cranking circuit from the '96 FSM.
Here it is with the wiring colored to match what's documented for your truck:
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You sound comfortable rooting around in the wiring harness, so right to the troubleshooting.
1) Your troubleshooting has already proven out the circuitry on both the input to the 'power' side of the relay as well as the
output side to the starter solenoid. And substituting relays covers that base as well. And the starter solenoid/starter is also
proven to be still functional.
2) I concur with your diagnosis that you are having a circuit issue on the 'control' side of the relay. (Energizing the control coil.)
The diagram supports your comments about the ignition switch and neutral safety switch are upstream and in series
with the control coil in the relay. The diagram above is for quick reference. The attached .pdf file is taken straight from the
GM Service Manual, and should provide a clearer view of the details on this page.
The one other thing I added is the metric to standard AWG wiring size conversion table. This helps me when I'm trying to
positively identify wires during troubleshooting sessions.
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The last time I got involved in a no-crank issue it turned out to be a melted connector at the neutral safety switch. Don't
know if this was a one-off or it's a common failure item. Just something to keep an eye out for.
Hope this helps. Looking forward to finding out what you discover.
Best of luck --
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Well, for better or for worse, I think I narrowed it down to the shift linkage cable. Since I discovered today the plastic part that clips it to the bracket was broken, and also, it freely shifts without depressing the brake pedal as well. But, the shifter on the column is also super loose and wiggly, so I may need to see if there is a place/way I can tighten that mechanism up along with replacing the linkage cable, and then go from there, when I can get the money to replace the cable.
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