6.5 diesel not starting

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6.5-k3500

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Well I just tried to prime the IP but I only got fuel out of number 1, I tightened everything down and the engine sounds like one cylinder is trying to fire and I can smell diesel in the exhaust and there's a little white smoke also. It feels like I'm getting close to getting it started finally. I think it should be running by now, its getting air, some fuel, compression, just no ignition.
 

great white

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Well I just tried to prime the IP but I only got fuel out of number 1, I tightened everything down and the engine sounds like one cylinder is trying to fire and I can smell diesel in the exhaust and there's a little white smoke also. It feels like I'm getting close to getting it started finally. I think it should be running by now, its getting air, some fuel, compression, just no ignition.

Crack the drivers lines again and keep purging.

You have to get it to kick and catch.

Keep those batteries charged up.

Make sure your glow plugs are working properly also. White smoke on start that eventually goes away is usually a glow plug issue. The white smoke is actually raw, unburnt diesel.

Is it cold where you are right now? If it's got a block heater, plug that in too. Get some heat in that block and see what it does.

I've started cold diesels before by sticking a hair dryer down the intake to warm the air charge. Sometimes it's just that little bit extra to get 'er to kick off. It's all about heat in the cylinder for autoignition.

DO NOT use starter fluid whatever you do. 6.5's do not respond well to it. You can bend rods and crack pistons....I have used a little squirt of WD 40 in really hard to start engines. Still, not recommended.

Once you get it spinning close to idle speed that IP will be spinning fast enough to clear the lines quicker, even with the injectors hooked up. You're doing it at cranking speed which takes forever. Idle speed is only about 8 MM^3 of fuel per injection. That's at roughly 650 RPM. You're trying to do it at cranking speed. That's a lot of revolutions required to purge the line and the injector at 8 mm^3 or less per injection event.....

If it still won't start, we can look at possible air leaks in the lines. Easy way to check is to replace the return line on the top of the IP with clear tube and watch for bubbles. But you'll have lots of that right now anyways since you're purging lines...
 
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6.5-k3500

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Well good news and bad news, the IP is starting to prime finally (number 1 only so far) but number 1 injector is leaking from the body, that needs replaced and I still have to check the fuel solenoid to see if its working or not, otherwise I'm probably looking for a new IP
 

6.5-k3500

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Did some more work on the truck today, first day off in awhile. I did a continuity test on the PMD harness on terminals B (red) and F (black), power for the fuel solenoid and when I touch B I have continuity to both B and F, and vice versa, but only when the harness is on the pump, is this supposed to happen? also I followed this diagnostic procedure http://www.accuratediesel.com/nostart.html and everything checked out, I'm thinking its time for a new IP.
 

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I've had some 6.5's take up to 5 hours of purging before it would fire. Literally at it all afternoon. You can speed the process up by pulling the glow plugs so the pump spins a faster when cranking.

The can be a real biotch some times......
 

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I'll try it again and see, I spent 8 hours on it today. I'm still getting fuel squirting out of number 1 and nothing else, I even pulled all the injection lines off.
 

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Well I did some work on it again today, I have plenty of fuel coming back through the return line not much air but I still cant get the IP to fully prime, I'm currently waiting for the batteries to recharge to try it again. I wish there was an easier way to do it, but I'm kinda short on tools. I'll just keep working on it, it will prime slowly but surly.
 

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If you get it running and you still have air coming out of the return line, then you have a leak to hunt down. With a functioning lift pump, air in the line indicates a leak somewhere between the lift pump and the tank.

If if its cold where you are, plug the block heater in.

Make sure you glow plugs are working too.

Are you still only getting fuel from one injector line or are more of them "spurting" now?

Once you get it to fire a good portion of the battle is over.
 

6.5-k3500

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I believe that I have it primed for the most part now, I just need the motor to warm up more and it should fire. I currently have the intake manifold off, and I'm getting a lot of white smoke out of what I assume is the EGR ports in the heads with a puff of black smoke every now and again. Its probably 25* F out right now, I have the block heater plugged in and I'm about to reinstall the intake and steal the wife's hair dryer to warm the intake air up. It wants to start, just not there yet.
 

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Well I have more good news and some bad news, actually really bad news. First, the good, the truck finally started tonight, for 1 cycle, but the bad news is there's a horrible knock coming from between cylinders 2 and 4, sounds like the engine is trying to eat a valve. I don't have the money or the tools (yet) to fix it so I'm stuck with a couple of choices. both being easy, I will start a new thread with a poll to see what everyone thinks.
 
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