5.3 Build for 95 1/2 ton swap

[Blackwater]

Well I guarantee that mine will book it and tow it. It even sounds good doing it. cant wait to see what the LQ4 stroker will do

 

[shovelbill]

I am thinking about getting the 4.8L pistons for my 5.3L to make it the H.O. version. Mamma don't need too much more the a few more ponies. She gets more tickets then I do. Mama 4 tickets - daddy 3 waning's 0 tickets.

wouldn't the wrist pin be in the wrong spot for the stroke difference....or is there enough room for the skirt?

 

[shovelbill]

I will add my 2 cents to this as well, I have a 408 LS in my 95, I am running the TSP 228R 588 lift intake and exhaust with 110 LSA to bring in torque at lower rpm since this is a truck, I have a built 4L80E with Transgo HD2 shift kit and 2400 stall converter. Makes a ton of power and lot's down low in the rpm range. I really dislike a big stall converter unless you are on the dragstrip, and whatever you do please do not pick a cam based solely on sound, I know a lot of people that end up with trucks that sound good and are slow pigs because the cam they picked makes most of its power up high in the rpm range.

and i can say i've seen FAR too many people not match their gearing to the cam........if the rpm range of a particular cam is not where you "drive" the vehicle, it's useless......i always like to set up a daily rider to just "ride the cam".......what's the sense of building an expensive engine if it turns out to be a boat anchor for YOUR particular needs.

in the Harley world....
if a cam that starts making it's power around 4K rpm's is put into a heavy touring bike like an Electra Glide, that is used for traveling and cruises at 2,600 rpm......it's going to be absolute crap.

 

[Blackwater]

wouldn't the wrist pin be in the wrong spot for the stroke difference....or is there enough room for the skirt?

the wrist pins would have to be moved closer to the top. with a 4" crank your skirts would be just fine. If you go bigger then you would have to have it sleeved an have the block machined to allow the rod bolts to pass. If you do not do these steps then you would get what's call piston slap. Which was a big issue in the first two years of the LS1. They did not have that issue with the H.O. version of the LS1 (LS6) since it came out later.

When it comes to power range. the combination of the heads and cam will set the torque and hp min and max. I personally like a flat torque curve all the way through the RPM range. I like the feel of my body constantly sinking into the seat at a constant rate till I shift.

 

[shovelbill]

the wrist pins would have to be moved closer to the top. with a 4" crank your skirts would be just fine. If you go bigger then you would have to have it sleeved an have the block machined to allow the rod bolts to pass. If you do not do these steps then you would get what's call piston slap. Which was a big issue in the first two years of the LS1. They did not have that issue with the H.O. version of the LS1 (LS6) since it came out later.

When it comes to power range. the combination of the heads and cam will set the torque and hp min and max. I personally like a flat torque curve all the way through the RPM range. I like the feel of my body constantly sinking into the seat at a constant rate till I shift.

yea, you should see what's necessary , machine wise, to run a 5" stroke in a Harley. stock is 3 13/16" of 4 1/4"..basically the same issues, but the skirts used to be so short longevity was out the window. with modern tech, metallurgy etc it's much better. i'm a big proponent of coating, both moly and ceramic.....keeps the heat in and ya can run tighter tolerances than day of yore......the longer the stroke the less life the rod bearing get to enjoy as well.......

LSA play a big roll in what's under the curve.....though it's only part of the story.

gas porting and Singh grooves.

 

[Blackwater]

Some of those terms and processes maybe specific to air cooled or motorcycles. I do understand some of it.