4l60e lost OD/lockup

[vipergtrdj]

So I was out shopping earlier, and my servo cover popped out (i replaced the stock servo with a vette one around 1500miles ago). The cover only popped out to where you could see the first O-ring. So I pushed it all back on and put the clip back together, and its held in. But now I noticed that it won't lock-up/ over drive. I did some data-logging and the ECU is saying its in D4, and the selected gear is D4, but with rpms@ 2250 its doing 50mph. Before the servo leaked the fluid it seemed to work fine, I hardly get it to lock-up since I only go about 4-5miles a day with it. I just happened to get on the highway today and noticed it would not lock up.

I have checked the 4L60E thread for this, the transmission shifts great other then it won't lock-up. I checked the brake switch and brake lights all seem to work with the brake pedal. I have searched through 14pages and could not find any other suggestions out. Anyone able to chime in ?

also forgot to add - no service engine light on. Does a bad solenoid always display the light?

 

[woody80z28]

The TC lockup brake circuit is separate from the brake light circuit, so that is still a possibility. The light circuit is open and closed with the pedal pressed, but the TC circuit is closed and then open when the pedal is pressed. There is a flag in the datastream that you can check it with. The PO of my truck cut the TC wire on the brake switch to disable lockup when they had the trans trouble.

 

[vipergtrdj]

The TC lockup brake circuit is separate from the brake light circuit, so that is still a possibility. The light circuit is open and closed with the pedal pressed, but the TC circuit is closed and then open when the pedal is pressed. There is a flag in the datastream that you can check it with. The PO of my truck cut the TC wire on the brake switch to disable lockup when they had the trans trouble.

oh ok. I will check it out. I thought it was the same circuit as the brake switch. You don't think having the servo cover leak would cause to much damage? I refilled it with fluid right away and fixed it before it started slipping bad due to low fluid.

Also, which flag should I be looking at? I don't notice one referring to the TCC circuit being open/ closed.

Is this the correct part for the brake switch if that is what the problem is - AC Delco #D1565E?

 

[vipergtrdj]

I just went out and got some logging done for the transmission codes. It looks like everything is where it should be, but still no lockup.

Here is a picture - so that means its the brake switch, or solenoid still? There was no slipping previous to this in lockup, it just happened all of a sudden, so I believe the clutches are fine, also considering it still shifts amazing in all other gears. I have no idea if this is the stock transmission or not, but truck odo states 165k miles. Only thing I have done to the transmission is deep pan, vette servo, and put a temp sensor in the side of the pan (did it before installing on transmission so I could clean the metal shards from drilling and tapping the hole).

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[vipergtrdj]

Sry for so many posts. I'm on my iPhone. I ground tcc solenoid to ground with a switch that I toogled on and off with no difference. Does that help narrow the possibilities? I'm thinkig it's almost worth buying a built transmission

 

[woody80z28]

There is something in the datastream called "Brake Pedal: Pressed -or- Not Pressed" I believe.

From your screen shot though it shows TCC applied...which means it should be in lock up at that point I would think. Seems like that would point to it not being an electrical problem.

 

[vipergtrdj]

There is something in the datastream called "Brake Pedal: Pressed -or- Not Pressed" I believe.

From your screen shot though it shows TCC applied...which means it should be in lock up at that point I would think. Seems like that would point to it not being an electrical problem.

That is my thoughts as well. I ordered a new TCC Solenoid from rockauto - everyone around here has them for $40+, rockauto was $27, saved a little bit. Going to try replacing it once it comes in. I am thinking that the solenoid is getting the power, but its just not pulling it in (or doing whatever it is that the solenoid does), to engage lockup.

 

[vipergtrdj]

Minor update - My new solenoid should be here tomorrow, so I will be installing that along with the boost valve. I took it for a drive yesterday and when I go from Drive to Overdrive, it revs up like its shifting but then just stays in drive. Any way the vette servo could cause this from it leaking the other day? When I noticed the vette servo leaking, it had pushed out the cover to the first O-ring (the blue one). Not sure if that would cause this issue or not. Figured I would pull the servo cover off tomorrow night when I am replacing the solenoid just to make sure everything is in its proper spots.

Also - Where would I find a new c-clip thing that holds the servo cover on at ? I checked rockauto.com but did not see it listed.

 

[vipergtrdj]

So I pulled the servo out - and I found that the 4th apply piston seal was broken. I just replaced it when I put the vette servo in. But I ordered another from the dealership ($9), along with a new c-clip that holds the cover on. I need a new o-ring for the cover, and can I use just any o-ring that fits or is there something special about the blue covered one that is on the cover now?

 

[vipergtrdj]

Wanted to give an update.
Appears the seal was the issue - got the new seal in and now it runs great ! Still seems a little high rpm wise for 65mph, but will see how it runs after I replace the fuel pump tomorrow. I still need to find a pair of snap ring pliers that will fit inside the transmission pump to replace the boost valve - anyone have a brand or store to try? All the parts stores around me carry the same thing, and they do not fit. The tips of the pliers that are supposed to go inside the clips, are too big.