4l60e from 95 Impala SS fit a 95 Silverado 2wd?

[OKAY]

Hi. I'm finding different answers. You guys will know. Trans is coming out of a 95 SS Impala going into a 95 K1500 Silverado 2wd. Will this work without any modifications?

I'm aware of the one bell housing bolt difference not being an issue and using my own TC. But I'm not sure on shaft length and spline count and flywheel issues.

Thank you.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Hi. I'm finding different answers. You guys will know. Trans is coming out of a 95 SS Impala going into a 95 K1500 Silverado 2wd. Will this work without any modifications?

I'm aware of the one bell housing bolt difference not being an issue and using my own TC. But I'm not sure on shaft length and spline count and flywheel issues.

Thank you.

What bell housing bolt difference?

Both gen1 and gen2 SBC share the same rear engine-trans bolt pattern...it should be fine assuming your truck is a 2WD and not a 4x4 ("K" truck designations typically indicate 4x4) and assuming the transmission itself is a 95 model year unit...

 

[OKAY]

Sorry, Nick, it's 2wd Silverado. This is what I read..
4l60e

 

[NickTransmissions]

Sorry, Nick, it's 2wd Silverado. This is what I read..
4l60e

That thread primarily discusses the differences between 5.7 gen1 SBC 4L60Es vs the 4L60Es that went in behind Gen3 small blocks like the LS1 and 4.8L/5.3/6.0, etc. They are not interchangeable without lots of mods/parts swapping between transmissions to go forwards and backwards and thats only to a certain extent.

But since you're simply going from a 95 to a 95 you should be fine. The bell hsg bolt patterns, TCs, shafts, pump, electronic command and control, etc are all the same.

 

[OKAY]

Super man thanks, again, Nick!!
I read this also btw, forgot to include this thread link..
(Impala not a f-body, I'm aware..,)
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/camaro-transmission-in-a-truck-question.62049/

 

[Schurkey]

Is the tailshaft length, and the tailhousing/trans mount the same from truck to B-body?

 

[NickTransmissions]

Is the tailshaft length, and the tailhousing/trans mount the same from truck to B-body?

Output shafts are the same length. The impala's ext housing has cast-in mounting provisions for the rear trans mount location on those vehicles. Shouldnt interfere with anything if swapped into the truck. Same applies to F-body 4L60E extension housings of that era in that they have through-bolt hole locations for torque arm mounting. Here's an example of mid-90s impala 4l60e:

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He can just swap his existing ext housing over if there's a problem...

 

[NickTransmissions]

Super man thanks, again, Nick!!
I read this also btw, forgot to include this thread link..
(Impala not a f-body, I'm aware..,)
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/camaro-transmission-in-a-truck-question.62049/

You're welcome, do the following before buying:

- Inspect the rear trans mount bolt hole locations to ensure they're not stripped
- push/pull on the input shaft - you should feel a very slight amount of longitudional travel - if you feel it move in/out by 1/4" or so, the forward drum thrust bearing has collapsed - reject that trans if so
- inspect the input shaft splines carefully - older 4L60Es can have excessively worn splines which will strip and result in a no-movment condition
- spin the input shaft - it will be hard to spin but should not bind or "gall"; should be smooth - watch the output shaft when doing this. If the output shaft is spinning in lock step chances are the 3-4 pack is partially welded to the front ring gear/3-4 clutch hub - listen for a "tin sound" - if you hear it and it's pronounced, thats a broken sun shell hitting the inner case wall
- inspect the output shaft splines - ensure they arent worn/chipped
- spin the output shaft if you can - make sure it spins (will be 3x harder to spin counter clockwise vs clockwise if viewed from the front of the trans - make sure it spins freely without hang up
- put the trans in park then spin the output shaft - it should lock up after at most 1/8 turn
- shine a flashlight into the pan looking for any metal, dark clutch material - smell it to make sure fluid isnt burnt

 

[OKAY]

Well my buddy already bought it, he left just after I started this thread. So we got it home and then I seen your latest reply, Nick.
The shaft spins smoothly without noise and the splines look untouched. Dark fluid but does not smell burnt at all. Some metal on the magnets but don't see any other material. Below is a video of the shafts side to side movement, not sure if it's normal? No in and out play though.
Output shaft movement

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You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[OKAY]

You're welcome, do the following before buying:

- Inspect the rear trans mount bolt hole locations to ensure they're not stripped
- push/pull on the input shaft - you should feel a very slight amount of longitudional travel - if you feel it move in/out by 1/4" or so, the forward drum thrust bearing has collapsed - reject that trans if so
- inspect the input shaft splines carefully - older 4L60Es can have excessively worn splines which will strip and result in a no-movment condition
- spin the input shaft - it will be hard to spin but should not bind or "gall"; should be smooth - watch the output shaft when doing this. If the output shaft is spinning in lock step chances are the 3-4 pack is partially welded to the front ring gear/3-4 clutch hub - listen for a "tin sound" - if you hear it and it's pronounced, thats a broken sun shell hitting the inner case wall
- inspect the output shaft splines - ensure they arent worn/chipped
- spin the output shaft if you can - make sure it spins (will be 3x harder to spin counter clockwise vs clockwise if viewed from the front of the trans - make sure it spins freely without hang up
- put the trans in park then spin the output shaft - it should lock up after at most 1/8 turn
- shine a flashlight into the pan looking for any metal, dark clutch material - smell it to make sure fluid isnt burnt

Got a slapping / knocking noise or maybe a scrapping noise coming from the bellhousng when first started after install.

Maybe he didn't seat the converter properly or... Don't know. He said he heard the 2 clicks seating it..

He pointed this out to me, this is the one from the Impala mounted onto the truck. He said it was really tight mounting that cone to the crossmember with having to jack up the rear of the tranny.. maybe screwing with alignment?

Im really trying to help him diagnose this noise the correct way without destroying anything (he dun started the truck running it a second time when I said not to! Pshh).

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