350, or 400 small block?

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Ace Champion

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-Why yes that will certainly cool it. A good aluminum 3 or 4 core will work as well.
-When you install the RMS clock the gaps so the main cap gap and seal gaps don't line up.
besides if you go putting a hopped up 383 in there you may find a cooling upgrade is necessary anyway.

@c1500deathtrap, thanks for the help. Guess I'm going to go do some homework, add some stuff up and see where all this will take me.
 

Ace Champion

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Love this thread.
I am going to try the 400 path because i have one already.
Mine is a 97 (ex 6.5TD), that i will be running pump gas and propane, just because of where I live.
What would a stock inlet manifold etc cost me to connect to the factory harness and computer that I have already sourced from Jimmy.
BTW, sorry to highjack your thread.

@Terrick down Under, no need to apologize....lol. I hope this thread helps as many people as it can.
 

michael hurd

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Lots of info here, great stuff.
Q. Will ‘97 year heads fit a ‘77 year 400, or do i just put the ‘97 intake on my motor?

They will physically bolt to the block.

Vortec heads have a specific intake manifold bolt pattern and raised ports. You can not install your 97 intake on your motor.

Vortec heads will need to have steam holes drilled, this is a relatively minor job you could do at home, using the 400 specific gaskets as a template. You must also use the 400 specific gaskets.

Personally I would not bother with an OE vortec set of heads, even though they have good flow potential to around 500 lift. Depending on foundry, I have read that some people have had valve retainer to seal / top of valve guide at anywhere between .470 and .480. It is a good idea to have the rocker studs either drilled and pinned, or replaced with screw in studs.

Aftermarket heads like the Edelbrock Etec 170 have manganese bronze guides, and can handle a lot more lift without issues out of the box, not to mention they also have heli-coils, are lighter, and not crack prone like the 5.7 vortec heads.
 
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