305 in the 305..

[Gramps]

About 5-6 years ago my brother, several friends and I were on a camping/ river floating trip 300 miles from home. One of our buddies had his 4.0L Cherokee overheat 100 miles from camp and had to limp it there. Block gas test said it had exhaust in the coolant. Rented a trailer, loaded the Cherokee up, moved most of the camping gear and luggage in the van to the Jeep. All 7 of us jumped in the van and hit the highway. I was uncomfortably sun burned and had the pedal down on I35 running with traffic at 70-75 even 80 at times. The old 350 loafed along in overdrive. 4L85E and 3.73 9.5 14-bolt. Still managed 14 mpg and the 350 never screamed at me, it just grunted along. A couple of long grades put it into 3rd, but I was easily rolling along over 14,000 lbs combined maybe closer to 15K. My tuning style also does not really lug an engine, I set tunes up to unlock the converter and downshift about the time the TPS opening makes the MAP go to atmospheric pressure. It could have used little more rise on the ball mount but towed well the way it was. The van was firmly into the 1-ton overloads I had in the 1500 leaf spring packs on it at that time.

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I have to ask.. how the heck does a 4500-5000lb van plus an aluminum car hauler 1500lbs max plus a 3000lb Jeep add up to 14,000 lbs?
My truck (05 1500 4500-5000lbs)((plus wife kids dog, extra 55 gal drum of water, 20gal of fuel and genny)) and 6000lb 28’ camper plus gear and a full water tank comes in well under 14k. Either that Jeep is loaded with lead bricks or my math is off.

I’m not disagreeing about the LS making less tq at lower or comparable rpm than a 350, it was a real learning curve for me when I got my first 05 chevy. LS motors scream. They are made for it. I was so nervous I’d blow it up but they just love the rpm’s. My second one is now just shy of 300,000mi. When I tow I’ve learned to just let ‘er eat. 10-15mpg at 2000 r’s is no different than 10-15mpg at 3500-4000 r’s. The wear and tear factor is negligible between the 2 and they are both great engines. While a little more tq in the bottom end would be nice I’ve yet to try and drag race anybody at a light with my trailer on. And higher rpm when the 350 is wheezing and out of air the ls is just getting started. It took me a while to adjust but they are both great engines.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I have to ask.. how the heck does a 4500-5000lb van plus an aluminum car hauler 1500lbs max plus a 3000lb Jeep add up to 14,000 lbs?
My truck (05 1500 4500-5000lbs)((plus wife kids dog, extra 55 gal drum of water, 20gal of fuel and genny)) and 6000lb 28’ camper plus gear and a full water tank comes in well under 14k. Either that Jeep is loaded with lead bricks or my math is off.

I’m not disagreeing about the LS making less tq at lower or comparable rpm than a 350, it was a real learning curve for me when I got my first 05 chevy. LS motors scream. They are made for it. I was so nervous I’d blow it up but they just love the rpm’s. My second one is now just shy of 300,000mi. When I tow I’ve learned to just let ‘er eat. 10-15mpg at 2000 r’s is no different than 10-15mpg at 3500-4000 r’s. The wear and tear factor is negligible between the 2 and they are both great engines. While a little more tq in the bottom end would be nice I’ve yet to try and drag race anybody at a light with my trailer on. And higher rpm when the 350 is wheezing and out of air the ls is just getting started. It took me a while to adjust but they are both great engines.

Van was about 6,200# maybe a shade more with the 4L85E and 9.5 14 bolt swapped into it with the reciever hitch and rear sway bar added and then had 7 adults averaging 200 lbs inside. The jeep had 500+ lbs of gear and stuff inside. On the way down the van alone had the back completely packed floor to seat back height with the seat slid all the way forward and under the seat was full and we still had aome bags up front. That trailer is more like 2,000 empty. They are pretty heavy. I was figuring 4K for the 4x4 Cherokee. So I might be a little over on the estimate but it was still a lot.

6,200 + 1,400 + 1,500 + 3,500 even if you say the Jeep is 3K, remember it had 500 lbs of stuff in it. Even using your estimate for the trailer and Cherokee, correcting the vans empty curb weight considering you are way off the vans weight that was still 12,600 lbs. My 2wd Tahoe was a 5,000 lbs SUV and the 4x4 Yukon Denali or Escalade were 5,800 lbs. The van may have started out around 5,000 as a base cargo van, but then about 1,000 lbs of stuff added to it in the interior conversion process. I recently ran the van across a scale with the full 8-lug running gear under it at 6,940 lbs with my 250 lbs in the driver seat and a full 31 gallon tank. My old 83 G20 conversion that did not even have a real frame under it was 5,300 lbs empty. The 97 has alot more weight added to it than that 83 did during the conversion. It has 3 extremely heavy power seats in it. The rear power trifold sofa is probably 200 lbs by itself. I have removed it a couple of times by myself over the years it is as heavy as a 350 engine block.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Ty, If you have a recommended part no or year/ model that would be awesome

The AC Delco EP381 is the preferred pump, but they're getting hard to find. Any stock replacement Vortec fuel pump will work, but there's a serious case of Chinesium poisoning out there. If you buy the cheapest you might end up having to replace the fuel pump again soon. Right now RockAuto's only showing two options, and neither is confidence inspiring.

1999 CHEVROLET K1500 SUBURBAN 5.7L V8 Fuel Pump | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

I looked further and did find the AC Delco at Jegs for 4x the price. Worth it.

ACDelco EP381: FUEL PUMP - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with ACDelco FUEL PUMP EP381 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I looked further and did find the AC Delco at Jegs for 4x the price. Worth it.

ACDelco EP381: FUEL PUMP - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with ACDelco FUEL PUMP EP381 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

IF they ever get it back in stock...

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I got mine a few years ago from Summit Racing. They're NLA too but, suggest a Delphi. I have no experience with them.

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[Erik the Awful]

Doh!

Armagazon say they have it.
www.amazon.com/ACDelco-EP381-Original-Equipment-Electric/dp/B000C9SHOU

 

[Scooterwrench]

That trailer is more like 2,000 empty. They are pretty heavy.

Yeah,they're not aluminum,they're galvanized steel. Even empty you know they're back there. They do pull nice!

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

On that same notion the Gen 1 SBC is still the most built and used engine in probably the world. There are still builders that specialize in only small block Chevy race engines. Hard to argue with that as well. Most racers still build SBC engines and the 305, 360 and 410 Sprint cars are making huge power NA from their 23* small blocks. You do not see Nascar running the banked oval using LS power. Its not exactly a small block either, but if the LS was so great, surely they would run them. Industrial power is generally not LS despite it being around since 1997. I have yet to see a natural gas powered generator running a LS but thousands are running either a 5.7L or 8.1L and usually turbocharged. Generators are setup for maximum torque at 1,800 rpm and both the 5.7L and 8.1L excel in that application with stump pulling low-speed torque. The Marine industry was also very slow to embrace the LS and most jumped straight from SBC to GenV power. Most boats are kept under 5,000 rpm as they are produced and the LS simply was not enough of an upgrade to re-engineer everything for them. There are a few exceptions, most notably Seven marine that had the LSA engined outboards but they were bought out and discontinued.

The LS platform has won 24 hour races at Daytona and LeMans. The Daytona track layout is on the banked oval except for maybe 20% of the lap.

ARCA uses LS.

The R07 is arguably closer to an LS than Gen1, although I would say not that close to either. No parts are going to interchange.

 

[jd33173]

OK, have made a determination and am moving forward. I dont think that I am comfortable dropping in a crate at this time due to cost i would have to pay (4-5k) to get something reputable that I would have a great chance to screw up. I do have experienced help, but this is MY hobby not all of my friends problem to dig me out of if i jump into something beyond my capability. I am going to buy a used 350 tbi in running condition and swap it out like for like (except of course i have a 305 but close enough for gubmint work). I have purchased a used snap on 2500 to take a look at codes for WHEN I dont get everything right the first time (LOL - wipes away tear). I am planning on getting an engine stand and borrowing my pal's hoist. I am of two minds (of course) in my thinking - plan a: swap it and move on or Plan b: go through the whatever replacement Engine i get with my Mechanic buddy BEFORE i yank mine out and discombobulate my current situation.One of the reasons I am thinking this way is that it will give me more familiarity about how this thing goes together. Many pictures will be taken, diagrams drawn and ziplocs filled with parts and sharpied up. When i was an alternator rebuilder, I would make sure to replace bearings, test windings and put it on the bench tester to ensure my customers had a problem free device. I am thinking that this is probably going to be a well used engine and I want to give myself a reasonable shot with my first engine swap while i have the thing out. What are the biggest things that pop out at this august body that I should evaluate and look for before I stick this thing in there? Thanks in advance

 

[Schurkey]

Run the engine--either in the donor vehicle or on an engine stand with a carburetor and non-computer-controlled distributor, and a temporary radiator.

If it has decent hot idle oil pressure, doesn't leak, has decent cranking compression, and even cylinder balance...leave it the **** alone. Don't make headaches for yourself.

If it leaks oil...fix the leaks. If it has poor oil pressure, or funky compression, or uneven cylinder balance--you'll be pulling things apart for inspection.

 

[Hipster]

OK, have made a determination and am moving forward. I dont think that I am comfortable dropping in a crate at this time due to cost i would have to pay (4-5k) to get something reputable that I would have a great chance to screw up. I do have experienced help, but this is MY hobby not all of my friends problem to dig me out of if i jump into something beyond my capability. I am going to buy a used 350 tbi in running condition and swap it out like for like (except of course i have a 305 but close enough for gubmint work). I have purchased a used snap on 2500 to take a look at codes for WHEN I dont get everything right the first time (LOL - wipes away tear). I am planning on getting an engine stand and borrowing my pal's hoist. I am of two minds (of course) in my thinking - plan a: swap it and move on or Plan b: go through the whatever replacement Engine i get with my Mechanic buddy BEFORE i yank mine out and discombobulate my current situation.One of the reasons I am thinking this way is that it will give me more familiarity about how this thing goes together. Many pictures will be taken, diagrams drawn and ziplocs filled with parts and sharpied up. When i was an alternator rebuilder, I would make sure to replace bearings, test windings and put it on the bench tester to ensure my customers had a problem free device. I am thinking that this is probably going to be a well used engine and I want to give myself a reasonable shot with my first engine swap while i have the thing out. What are the biggest things that pop out at this august body that I should evaluate and look for before I stick this thing in there? Thanks in advance

When I hear sourcing a running engine, I'm going to hear it running and check some stuff out before money changes hands. They're out there and so is lots of un-usable stuff. Frozen, overheated, etc. and sometimes it takes a bit of time to find the right one/deal. I tend to chase running ones. Out and sitting on the floor with accessories stripped off is a pass for me. The short story is that magnafluxing a block is subject to human error and much more involved than checking heads for cracked seats. been there with a bunch machine work in a bad block with a 2 year production spread I never could find another one for.