1997 K1500 suburban transmission options

[GoToGuy]

I'll look into that.

 

[dasburb]

@NickTransmissions

First off--thank you for your thoughtful reply. I really appreciate the input and have decided to rebuild the transmission.

That said, I've decided going to do it myself + along with a friend who is an expert (engineer + worked in a shop for several years). We've both watched the transmission bench 4L60e series, and will be rebuilding it along with a re-watch of those videos (and with ziploc bags instead of a small parts box).

This may read like something along the lines of "he who is is own lawyer has a fool for a client" but I'm about to move do a different place where I'll have access to a garage and the space to properly and carefully do a two-table rebuild. I also think it makes the most sense especially if I want it done right/the way I'm really looking to do it.

A couple more questions:

1. Is there anything in those transmission bench videos they get wrong or any steps that you have felt are particularly tricky/counterintuitive?

2. I'm considering the going out and getting the Sonnax Heavy Duty 'durability' upgrades vs some kind of performance upgrade: my stock 5.7 ain't going anywhere fast. The upgrades they listed are:

• Performance Pack HP-4L60E-01
• SmartShell® Heavy Duty Reaction Shell Kit 77749-02K
• Heavy Duty 3-4 Clutch Backing Plate Kit 74140-01K
• Rear Stator Support Bushing 77002BT-01
• 4th Gear Super Hold Servo Kit 77767K
• 2nd Gear Servo Kit 77701-02K
• Heavy Duty 2-3 Shift Valve 77754-41
• Optional Heavy Duty Remanufactured Valve Body GM053-HD or GM054-HD Learn More

Do you think those components would cover a transmission which would last a very long time? are they overkill? are there any components you think are missing? are there any which you think are unnecessary? Is there something better for durability? would love a lil guidance if you can give any

TIA for the input!

 

[evilunclegrimace]

997 will directly interchange with each other (98+ use a six bolt ext housing so prob wont work with your tcase) but buying a used 4L60e is a massive gamble. Just pull yours out and have it rebuilt by a reputable shop.

I am going to offer this observation on the 97-98 swap.I am in the process of swapping a one piece bell housing 4l60e that was in my '98 suburban for a two piece bell housing 4l60e out of a '97 K1500 pickup. The trany cases are different lengths from the bell housing to the rear of the case between these two tranys. BUT the over all length from the bell housing to the T case mounting surface is within 1/8 of one inch of each other. They share the same cross member position,the same trans mount and the same
t- case to adapter gasket.

 

[NickTransmissions]

@NickTransmissions

First off--thank you for your thoughtful reply. I really appreciate the input and have decided to rebuild the transmission.

That said, I've decided going to do it myself + along with a friend who is an expert (engineer + worked in a shop for several years). We've both watched the transmission bench 4L60e series, and will be rebuilding it along with a re-watch of those videos (and with ziploc bags instead of a small parts box).

This may read like something along the lines of "he who is is own lawyer has a fool for a client" but I'm about to move do a different place where I'll have access to a garage and the space to properly and carefully do a two-table rebuild. I also think it makes the most sense especially if I want it done right/the way I'm really looking to do it.

A couple more questions:

1. Is there anything in those transmission bench videos they get wrong or any steps that you have felt are particularly tricky/counterintuitive?

2. I'm considering the going out and getting the Sonnax Heavy Duty 'durability' upgrades vs some kind of performance upgrade: my stock 5.7 ain't going anywhere fast. The upgrades they listed are:

• Performance Pack HP-4L60E-01
• SmartShell® Heavy Duty Reaction Shell Kit 77749-02K
• Heavy Duty 3-4 Clutch Backing Plate Kit 74140-01K
• Rear Stator Support Bushing 77002BT-01
• 4th Gear Super Hold Servo Kit 77767K
• 2nd Gear Servo Kit 77701-02K
• Heavy Duty 2-3 Shift Valve 77754-41
• Optional Heavy Duty Remanufactured Valve Body GM053-HD or GM054-HD Learn More

Do you think those components would cover a transmission which would last a very long time? are they overkill? are there any components you think are missing? are there any which you think are unnecessary? Is there something better for durability? would love a lil guidance if you can give any

TIA for the input!

You're welcome, @dasburb....

The Transmission Bench is a good channel but from what I recall, he does purely stock rebuilds, following factory-prescribed procedures and specs whether it's beneficial for the transmission or not. Plus he's great if you're suffering from insomnia as he will put you right to sleep within a few minutes of watching...not that I'm all that entertaining either but don't think I'm quite as effective a sleep agent as he.

I have my own 4L60E rebuild series, which includes full tear down and inspection, reassembly as well as several vids on high performance tips and tricks - feel free to check out my 4L60E Youtube playlist here.

You don't need the Sonnax performance pack unless you're building out a trans for high performance, and even then I'd delete some of the stuff in there (Never install that stupid 3rd accumulator check valve - totally unnecessary and can be counter-productive, for example)...Same with the Sonnax Super Hold Servos, 3-4 backing and apply plate kit (only allows for a stock clutch pack), HD Valve body - yours can be reassembled with a couple choice parts and procedures so pocket the savings... A lot of that stuff is nice but unnecessary in a trans behind a stock or mild performance engine. The stuff I'd def do are as follows:

- Sonnax Smart Shell - best such shell on the market
- Sonnax Pinless accumulator pistons (you can do one, two or all three) - otherwise simply purchase all new stock accumulator pistons as your pre-existing ones are worn out
- Transgo Unbreakable pump ring kit for engines that rev under 5000 RPMs
- Fitzall TCC Regulator valve kit (pt A74741-Q)
- Central Valve Bodies AFL drop in valve (pt 4L60E-AFL)
- Sonnax rear stator and pump body bushing
- Extra Sonnax pump body bushing for the rear bushing in the reverse input drum
- Sonnax wide rear sun gear bushing
- Sonnax LB4L60E boost valve kit
- Sonnax TCC control valve for the pump (optional little upgrade if stock one is worn, but that's rare)
- Corvette 093 2nd gear servo
- Viton D-ring seals for the servo
- New Borg Warner 29-element input sprag
- New wiring harness w/TCC lock up solenoid (Rostra), shift solenoids (AC Delco), PWM and 3-2 Solenoid (Rostra or AC Delco), pressure switch manifold assembly (AC Delco)

I sometimes use this Cal/Deluxe kit on eBay for mild builds - has Alto high energy clutches including their 'Powerpack' for the 3-4 clutch pack as well as a wide 2-4 band, full steel module, all bushings (won't come with the Sonnax bushings mentioned above, you'll need to grab those separately), filter, paper, rubber, seals and gaskets. If your transmission has a factory deep pan, you'll need this kit instead.

The stuff I listed above should give you all the reliability you need without having you spend a ton of money for minimal, if any gains...If you're vehicle was pushing more than 450 HP, I'd have you add the billet super hold servos, Smart Tech drum or Cope Racing HP drum w/HD input shaft, Sonnax billet reaction shaft and five pinion GM OEM front and rear planetaries but none of those things are necessary for a stock engine used in a daily driver application.

Specific Procedures to perform during the overhaul:
1. Have the pump's working surfaces re-machined, pump body pocket cut to depth and resurfaced such that your pump rotor and slide clearance is .001-.0015 (I show this measurement process in my 700R4 Rebuild series)
2. Have the reverse input drum turned as it's likely dished/warped
3. Set 3-4 clutch pack clearance to .030-.050 using the Powerpack's apply and backing plate set and snap ring - delete the load release springs
4. Use 400-600 grit sand paper on the inner diameter of the input sprag's outer race to reintroduce x-hatching - gives the new sprag a better surface to grab onto
5. Set front end play to between .015-.025 max
6. Drill the spacer plate as follows: 1-2 feed (corvette servo) .080-.086; 2-3 feed and 2-3 band release: .093, 3-4 feed .093. Do NOT Drill any other holes
7. Air check the entire case - see my video here for info on test plates (i'd spend some of the savings from not purchasing some of those other parts on a test plate)

I know this is a lot of info, feel free to ask more questions either now or as you go.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I am going to offer this observation on the 97-98 swap.I am in the process of swapping a one piece bell housing 4l60e that was in my '98 suburban for a two piece bell housing 4l60e out of a '97 K1500 pickup. The trany cases are different lengths from the bell housing to the rear of the case between these two tranys. BUT the over all length from the bell housing to the T case mounting surface is within 1/8 of one inch of each other. They share the same cross member position,the same trans mount and the same
t- case to adapter gasket.

Check the extension housing bolt patterns between the two...The one piece cases have four bolts for the T-case adaptors just like a 700R4 while the two-piece cases have six. So either will work as long as they both bolt to whichever Tcases that are intended to be used.

Otherwise, the command and control between 1996 and early 2006 are largely identical. The only electronic change that took place during those years was a change to the EPC's connector from a dual pin to square style...So harness and EPC have to match but you can retro the 2nd design into any year back to 96 as a set. The only hard part change was a slight tweak to the VB and spacer plate between 2000 and 2001, to address pattern issues w/the TCC regulator valves and P1870 from 1996-2000.

You (or anyone reading this) just have to make sure you use a 98+ transmission that was installed behind a 5.7L Vortec as a 4L60E that went behind a Gen3 small block will not interchange without significant conversion work...

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Check the extension housing bolt patterns between the two...The one piece cases have four bolts for the T-case adaptors just like a 700R4 while the two-piece cases have six. So either will work as long as they both bolt to whichever Tcases that are intended to be used.

Both the dual range floor shifted T case and the dash mounted push button tcase have the same bolt pattern,

 

[NickTransmissions]

Both the dual range floor shifted T case and the dash mounted push button tcase have the same bolt pattern,

Yea im not familiar with all the diff transfer cases as i hardly ever see those but if it bolts up, its good.

I would do a couple things to the replacent transmission before you stab it...

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Yea im not familiar with all the diff transfer cases as i hardly ever see those but if it bolts up, its good.

I would do a couple things to the replacent transmission before you stab it...

TO LATE!

 

[NickTransmissions]

TO LATE!

Its never too late.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Its never too late.

I did drop the pan and replace the filter and gasket and I changed the shift shaft seal.
I bought the '97 from a friend who bought it new but the winters here a tough on a truck as far a rust goes.It would not pass a Pa inspection. It had a little over 58,000 miles on it when I bought it last year. It sat for while as I bought it for the engine. It is just happy circumstance that it has a compatable trans after mine STB.