1990 C1500 ABS (RWAL) removal.

[ScoobyJD]

Yeah, just got done reading the thread sorry. I am new here, dont mind me; lol. I will definitely leave that alone and just tuck the wiring out of the way lol

 

[Colorado2500]

So I did this last weekend, and I have a softer pedal than I did previously, even after bleeding but it is consistent now at least. I still have stock rubber brake hoses, and the fluid probably needs changing, would that cause the softness?

 

[someotherguy]

Yeah, just got done reading the thread sorry. I am new here, dont mind me; lol. I will definitely leave that alone and just tuck the wiring out of the way lol

No worries. It's a lot of info to review.

Richard

 

[someotherguy]

So I did this last weekend, and I have a softer pedal than I did previously, even after bleeding but it is consistent now at least. I still have stock rubber brake hoses, and the fluid probably needs changing, would that cause the softness?

While many attribute near-magical qualities to braided stainless brake hoses, the fact is that factory rubber hoses are just fine and remember they're on 99.99999% of vehicles out there. I believe the benefit most find from converting to braided hoses is that they needed to bleed the system in the first place.. Now if you need to replace your hoses because they're original, then by all means there's nothing wrong with upgrading to braided. Heck I've got 'em on my truck, including the rear flex hose too.

How's your rear brake adjustment? If you haven't done this, it will absolutely contribute to soft pedal feel. Try this: with engine running, foot off brakes, set your parking brake until you just barely feel it begin to engage. Press your regular brake pedal, gauge the feel, then release the regular brake. Press the parking brake pedal a tiny bit more. Check regular brakes again. Repeat... as you set the parking brake incrementally farther, and notice the regular brake pedal firm up - you need to adjust your rear brakes.

Richard

 

[Colorado2500]

While many attribute near-magical qualities to braided stainless brake hoses, the fact is that factory rubber hoses are just fine and remember they're on 99.99999% of vehicles out there. I believe the benefit most find from converting to braided hoses is that they needed to bleed the system in the first place.. Now if you need to replace your hoses because they're original, then by all means there's nothing wrong with upgrading to braided. Heck I've got 'em on my truck, including the rear flex hose too.

How's your rear brake adjustment? If you haven't done this, it will absolutely contribute to soft pedal feel. Try this: with engine running, foot off brakes, set your parking brake until you just barely feel it begin to engage. Press your regular brake pedal, gauge the feel, then release the regular brake. Press the parking brake pedal a tiny bit more. Check regular brakes again. Repeat... as you set the parking brake incrementally farther, and notice the regular brake pedal firm up - you need to adjust your rear brakes.

Richard

Thanks for the reply. Rear brake adjustment is good, I readjusted them when I did a full brake job a few months ago. What's weird is pedal feel and travel was pretty good before the rwal delete, but had weird consistency, as in sometimes I had little pedal travel, and good braking force, but other times I had more travel to get the same braking force.
I'll try your suggestion though to see if they need adjustment.

 

[ScoobyJD]

If not may still have air in the master cylinder, may have to bleed it!

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www.ScoobyJD.com

 

[77Impala]

Thanks for the reply. Rear brake adjustment is good, I readjusted them when I did a full brake job a few months ago. What's weird is pedal feel and travel was pretty good before the rwal delete, but had weird consistency, as in sometimes I had little pedal travel, and good braking force, but other times I had more travel to get the same braking force.
I'll try your suggestion though to see if they need adjustment.

Your description of this problem sounds more like internal bypassing of your master cylinder. And if further bleeding of the brakes does not fix the problem I recommend changing the master cylinder.

 

[Sampuppy1]

Reading up I may need to change my master. My brakes are similar to the above posts. Sometimes I'll hit the brake and it responds right away. Minimal travel and I get resistance almost immediately. Mire often than not I'll hit the brake and it will travel 1/4-1/2 before I get any resistance and they just seem weak. It has no trouble stopping by any means. And I'm not expecting my 17 year old extended cab to stop like a Porsche but it's never felt right. And the intermittent "proper" operation I get further convinced me that something isn't functioning like its supposed to. I've blown a line before. I know what zero brake force at 90mph feels like. And I've locked the fronts up on gravel when it functions correctly. I just want it to feel right all the time. Not when it decides it wants to.

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[someotherguy]

Y'all just remember that these days, new master cylinders are a total crapshoot. If you install a new one and you're sure you did everything 100% correctly, bench bled it, installed, bled the whole system, bled it until you're swimming in brake fluid, and it still doesn't work right...you may very well have a bad right out of the box new master cylinder. Happens a lot. FYI

Richard

 

[Sampuppy1]

Thank god for lifetime warranty parts. Can you get brand new or do they only offer reman parts?

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