Reluctanse
I'm Awesome
Fixed lolWell think back... did you spill your soup or not???
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Fixed lolWell think back... did you spill your soup or not???
Yeah not super looking forward to it either way… it’ll be a fight I’m sure. Good call on the anti seize when reassembly comes.Word of caution/advice: Even if you have slip on drums, but they haven't been off for a long time, they will be difficult to remove. I coat the contact surfaces between the hub and drum with anti-seize, so they don't stick.
Surprising that with the gazillions of 14 bolts out there, there isn't a great 3rd party tool option. So, sounds like I need to plan to mod one if I go that route.1. All the aftermarket axle nut sockets I saw had four tabs to engage the slots in the nut. Problem is, the nuts on my '97 K2500 10.5" full-float axle had six notches. Which means you can line-up two tabs into two notches, but the other two tabs on the socket DON'T ALIGN with the notches in the axle nut, which prevents actual engagement of any tabs into notches. The "Official" GM "Special Tool" J-2222-C only has two tabs. Can align with nuts having four notches, or six notches. I suppose you could buy an aftermarket hub-nut socket, and cut off two of the tabs, so they don't prevent engagement of the remaining two.
2. The service manual says to tighten the nut to 50 ft/lbs while spinning the wheel the opposite direction you're turning the nut. Then back off 1/4 turn. Then tighten to 13 ft/lbs. Then turn nut to closest nut slot with the keyway on the axle stub. On my truck, that meant allowing a little free-play in the bearings.
3. Some axles had the axle shafts sealed with RTV Silicone. Some axles had the axle shafts sealed with a gasket. RTV Silicone--according to GM--is degraded by synthetic gear lube. I use a gasket on each axle shaft. Two of Fel-Pro # 55350. The rear cover gasket is Fel-Pro # 55063.
4. Hub bearing seal is Timken # 2081.
5. Yes, the outer hub bearing is held in with a snap-ring, and comes out from the seal-side of the hub. Opposite to typical wheel bearings.
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6. "Good luck" finding someone to turn 13" drums. No such thing around here. OTOH, this area is a machine-shop desert. There is ONE guy doing some race-engine machining; all the regular machine shops went out-of-business starting in the late '90s. Auto parts stores can turn smaller drums and rotors, but not the 8-lug stuff. Maybe where you are, there are more options.
Surprising that with the gazillions of 14 bolts out there, there isn't a great 3rd party tool option. So, sounds like I need to plan to mod one if I go that route.
Good call out on getting drums turned, I'll have to call around and see what my options are, or plan to buy drums, which I hope I don't have to do...
Thanks for the good info..!
Thanks - worth a shot for sure!Or bleed, go engage ABS a few times, and bleed again.
Be sure to activate ALL THREE CHANNELS, or you still have the potential for trapped air.Or bleed, go engage ABS a few times, and bleed again.
Well some good news for the day - I think? I'm glad to see this anyways:
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Slip on drums, yay. So that means I don't need to f around with pulling the axles etc. at least. I'm sure it comes with its own set of challenges getting them off for the first time in forever, but should make inspecting/servicing less of a hassle.
That found going to focus on getting a good bleed done, then inspecting and I'll go from there, again before throwing parts at it.
Thanks - worth a shot for sure!