I'm having an issue with wind noise on my drivers side. I looked and it has a bigger gap between the roof and the body than the passenger side. When driving down the road, I can pull against the door and make the sound quit. The weather stripping appears fine and the latch still has the rubber on it. Is there a way to adjust the striker in so the door shuts tighter. Also the outside of the door is flush with the side of the truck and there is no noticeable play in the hinge bolts and bushings.
Can I adjust door to shut tighter?
- Thread starter MarkIII
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someotherguy
Truly Awesome
If the door is sitting flush against the side of the truck, then don't mess with the striker adjustment.
Most likely what has happened is the upper part of your door frame is bent out a little bit, possibly from a break-in attempt (or even a legit unlocking.)
Sitting sideways on the seat, try bracing the door against your knee and pulling the top part of the frame towards you. A little bit at a time. Keep closing the door and re-checking it until you get it tight.
Richard
Most likely what has happened is the upper part of your door frame is bent out a little bit, possibly from a break-in attempt (or even a legit unlocking.)
Sitting sideways on the seat, try bracing the door against your knee and pulling the top part of the frame towards you. A little bit at a time. Keep closing the door and re-checking it until you get it tight.
Richard
Make sure you roll the window down before doing this.
Ironhead
I'm Awesome
Swapping the pins and bushings may move the door up in the body opening a wee bit, but don't count on it. I think the striker is adjustable. Simple and easy to do, I think it's a Torx bit you need.
TimeTraveler
Newbie
Try shimming the weatherstripping out from the body with thin pieces of cardboard or other flat flexible material. Maybe a little trim adhesive. Seen it on one of the fix your hot rod shows on Sunday morn.
sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
That weatherstripping is hollow.
I shoved some of this inside the length of that. Bulked the rubber up enough so that it seals up against the door better.
'Poly-foam piping cord'. 5/32".
Basic standard issue for any upholstery shop.
Not the plastic type, nor the cotton woven stuff. 'Poly-foam'.
Comes on huge rolls of thousands & thousands of yards. A roll last me years!
For the amount that you need to do this, the price should be damn near free.
To keep it from working itself out of the w/s, I wrapped some electrical tape around the ends to give it some bulk larger than the w/s i.d., then shoved inside so that it's invisible.
Did that a couple of years ago. Works good so far.
I shoved some of this inside the length of that. Bulked the rubber up enough so that it seals up against the door better.
'Poly-foam piping cord'. 5/32".
Basic standard issue for any upholstery shop.
Not the plastic type, nor the cotton woven stuff. 'Poly-foam'.
Comes on huge rolls of thousands & thousands of yards. A roll last me years!
For the amount that you need to do this, the price should be damn near free.
To keep it from working itself out of the w/s, I wrapped some electrical tape around the ends to give it some bulk larger than the w/s i.d., then shoved inside so that it's invisible.
Did that a couple of years ago. Works good so far.
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sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
Insulating foam tape for weathersealing around doors works for that too.
This is one hell of an idea. Might steal this if I ever have any more leaking issues with the barn doors on my 'Burb. Same hollow weatherstripping around that entire opening.
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