89 RCLB K1500 - Quality time with my son building his first truck.

fancyTBI · Jan 24, 2024

I used Inline Tube brake lines. The flares had minor imperfections on them. I could not get them to seal properly for the rear lines. I ended up running NiCopp from the ABS to the rear, all 1 piece. The Inline Tube had 3 different pieces to run from the ABS to the rear hose.

It was nice, I was going to warranty it but I was past the warranty date and they couldn’t do anything. For my ‘94 I’m just going to run NiCopp for all the brake lines.

For fuel lines I used Lines to Go and had zero issues whatsoever.

SNCTMPL · Jan 27, 2024

I don’t remember what thread it was but, @L31MaxExpress made a suggestion for Dawn powerblast. I thought I would try it out today on the front diff.

Sprayed it on and let it soak for a while, then I hit it with the pressure washer, flipped it and soaked it again and again and again.When I was done, I was soaking wet, and not sure if the Dawn did it or the pressure washer. But it turned out pretty good.

You must be registered for see images attach

fancyTBI · Jan 27, 2024

That's a great tip. I'm going to have to do this on my '94 for sure. Better invest in Procter & Gamble before I do that.

SNCTMPL · Jan 27, 2024

In addition to getting the front diff cleaned and ready for disassembly tomorrow, we got a few things prepped and painted today. Tried something different on the torsion and traction bars just to break up all the black.

You must be registered for see images attach

FullBlowncustoms · Jan 27, 2024

AWESOME clean work buddy!!! Very nice !!! Yeah Dawn works great, use to use it in the drain traps in garage floor builds where I use to work, I used it to clean out two stroke cylinders at my first step stage... Oh and they use it on the birds for oil spills in ocean, lakes etc.... GOOD STUFF !!

Road Trip · Jan 27, 2024

SNCTMPL said:
In addition to getting the front diff cleaned and ready for disassembly tomorrow, we got a few things prepped and painted today. Tried something different on the torsion and traction bars just to break up all the black.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Looks like Cast Blast from here. The more I use it, the more I like it.
Clean, more minimalist as opposed to cluttery.

Your son will be driving his Power Mechanics report card around for all to see. A+

:waytogo:

SNCTMPL · Jan 27, 2024

Road Trip said:
Looks like Cast Blast from here. The more I use it, the more I like it.
Clean, more minimalist as opposed to cluttery.

Your son will be driving his Power Mechanics report card around for all to see. A+

It is Cast Blast, the first time I have used it. So far I’m liking it.

Road Trip · Jan 27, 2024

SNCTMPL said:
So on the fuel and brake lines I’m looking at two options, pre-bent like inlinetube or copper nickel “easy bend” tubing and make my own. I’m a pipe fitter by trade and have all the tools needed to make my own, but the pre-bent would be stainless compared to the the copper nickel , which I have never worked with. Also the copper nickel would be about half the cost.

Thoughts?

I am a reluctant rust-belt brake line bender. Just about every well used car I've
purchased insisted on new brake lines. (Normally found/proven by failing the
panic stop stomp test at the end of the 'returning it to DD duty' comprehensive
brake job.)

I've used everything from stock, the one time in vogue green poly-covered
'corrosion resistant' stuff, put up a fight stainless, and now NiCopp.

NiCopp does not corrode. It gives such a good, confidence inspiring,
'gonna outlast the rest of the car' solution that this is the go-to stuff I would use
on my daughter's car. The one she carries my grandson in.

This is my highest rating.

Seriously, it's the only stuff I've used that when I go to replace the lines I know that
I will be satisfied with the results. And it's *not* a struggle to get those perfect
double-flares. Others mention the additional cost vs stock tubing, but to me it's
so good that I am unusually price-insensitive to the price of admission.

For more into, here's the NiCopp webpage: (NiCopp link)

From another forum, here's what some old hot-rodders have to say about NiCopp vs.
Stainless: (H.A.M.B. link)

The bottom line is that NiCopp originally came on European cars, does not corrode,
and I can successfully double-flare the stuff with mere mortal hand flaring tools,
instead of having to resort to investing in the $$$ hydraulic-powered flaring kits.

My 2¢ on brake lines FWIW. :0)

Cheers --

99xcss4 · Jan 28, 2024

I would put this on the list of things to do to the front end if you have not already https://www.ebay.com/itm/1310280058...6X7kMXsGeRjeKdXcuRX8OHB3Ao|tkp:Bk9SR66J6-apYw

SNCTMPL · Jan 28, 2024

Road Trip said:
I am a reluctant rust-belt brake line bender. Just about every well used car I've
purchased insisted on new brake lines. (Normally found/proven by failing the
panic stop stomp test at the end of the 'returning it to DD duty' comprehensive
brake job.)

I've used everything from stock, the one time in vogue green poly-covered
'corrosion resistant' stuff, put up a fight stainless, and now NiCopp.

NiCopp does not corrode. It gives such a good, confidence inspiring,
'gonna outlast the rest of the car' solution that this is the go-to stuff I would use
on my daughter's car. The one she carries my grandson in.

This is my highest rating.

Seriously, it's the only stuff I've used that when I go to replace the lines I know that
I will be satisfied with the results. And it's *not* a struggle to get those perfect
double-flares. Others mention the additional cost vs stock tubing, but to me it's
so good that I am unusually price-insensitive to the price of admission.

For more into, here's the NiCopp webpage: (NiCopp link)

From another forum, here's what some old hot-rodders have to say about NiCopp vs.
Stainless: (H.A.M.B. link)

The bottom line is that NiCopp originally came on European cars, does not corrode,
and I can successfully double-flare the stuff with mere mortal hand flaring kits,
instead of having to resort to investing in the $$$ hydraulic-powered flaring kits.

My 2¢ on brake lines FWIW. :0)

Cheers --

After doing some more research all signs point towards using CuNi. It seems to be the best way for us to go. The one expense with using it would be the straightening tool, but I’m always looking for a reason to get a new tool.

89 RCLB K1500 - Quality time with my son building his first truck.

fancyTBI

Some of my trucks run and drive

SNCTMPL

Supporting Member

fancyTBI

Some of my trucks run and drive

SNCTMPL

Supporting Member

FullBlowncustoms

I'm Awesome

Road Trip

Supporting Member

SNCTMPL

Supporting Member

Road Trip

Supporting Member

99xcss4

frank'n (truburban) K-2500

SNCTMPL

Supporting Member

Similar threads

Latest posts

Staff online

Members online

Forum statistics

Share this page