1991 C1500 in Florida

FLGS400 said:

Yeah Sean.... the "while I was there syndrome"...

Sounds like fun, but I don't really want to spend that kind of money on it right now

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Oh I hear ya! I’m 3 years into a 3 month engine swap…

My best advice is to do the best you can at each step without allowing it to be a Jack stand princess. Having a lift doesn’t help as I can park stuff under it while it’s up there lol.

Your

FLGS400 said:

Yeah Sean.... the "while I was there syndrome"...

Sounds like fun, but I don't really want to spend that kind of money on it right now

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Your "newish" around these parts....we good at spending other people's money!!!!!

Drunkcanuk said:

Your
Your "newish" around these parts....we good at spending other people's money!!!!!

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Oh heck yeah although no one can accuse me of not spending mega money on my projects so at least I backup what I propose.

FLGS400 said:

the "while I was there syndrome"...

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The front suspension is one of those cases where it really pays to replace everything if you're in there.

Look ma... no ball joints!


I had a couple hours to work on the truck tonight and was able to get the upper and lower ball joints out of it and clean the control arm ends up. I think finding the right combination of ball joint press parts to get the lower out, took longer than any other part of this job tonight... at least I'll know better for the other side and save some time!

A light film of light oil on the ball joints and in the holes will make pressing in the ball joints a lot easier and it helps prevent the holes from galling.

FLGS400 said:

Look ma... no ball joints!

You must be registered for see images attach

I had a couple hours to work on the truck tonight and was able to get the upper and lower ball joints out of it and clean the control arm ends up. I think finding the right combination of ball joint press parts to get the lower out, took longer than any other part of this job tonight... at least I'll know better for the other side and save some time!

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I chickened out when I was lowering mine, just got all new arms, upper and lower.
But I was also in a bit of a time crunch, so I didn't wanna "waste" time fighting ball joints, as mine were the original ones, still riveted. And I guess it was the bushings more so that I didn't wanna mess with.
Still have the originals, one day I'll rehab them. Never know when I'll need them.

Trucks moving along nicely.

Scooterwrench said:

A light film of light oil on the ball joints and in the holes will make pressing in the ball joints a lot easier and it helps prevent the holes from galling.

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Thanks for that information! It's been a while since I've done this.

Drunkcanuk said:

I chickened out when I was lowering mine, just got all new arms, upper and lower.
But I was also in a bit of a time crunch, so I didn't wanna "waste" time fighting ball joints, as mine were the original ones, still riveted. And I guess it was the bushings more so that I didn't wanna mess with.
Still have the originals, one day I'll rehab them. Never know when I'll need them.

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My ball joints were the original ones too. I thought about replacing the upper and lower control arms, but I had the press already from when I did the Buick's front end and the bushings look to be in good shape still.

Thank you, too!

So I was able to get the ball joints and spring in the passenger side. Connected the tie rod end and tried to grease everything. Unfortunately, it's an original one, and the grease inside the tie rod is so petrified, I cannot get it to accept fresh stuff. Looks like I'm putting a new outer tie rod on this side, too.

Here is as far as I got:


I ran into another issue with the drop spindles too, that halted my progress. I can't get the brake backing plate on it without cutting the control arm hole all the way to the bottom, clearancing the lower control arm tip, or leaving it off entirely. I'm concerned that if I leave it off or cut it where it's up against the lower control arm end, the rotor might hit. I never thought about that if you move the spindle location up 2". Now I know why most of these drop spindles push the wheels out farther. I'll do some web research or call McGaughy's tomorrow and see what they suggest.

That sucks about the spindle interference. First I heard of that. But to be fair, never really looked into those ones, went with Belltechs knowing about the pushing the wheel out a bit "issue". Only issue I had with them was one hole not being tapped all the way through. Easy fix.

I believe "Eric the car guy" on YouTube used those when he lowered his. Maybe check out the video and see if he had an issue as well.