Oh, boy. Where to start? My truck is an '88 K1500 5.7L, different years or different models may have different accessories or mountings.
A thin TBI adapter (Trans-Dapt 2211 or equivalent, spread-bore, center-mount) keeps the throttle body positioned close to stock placement, but will result in interference between the IAC and the EGR. There is a commercially-available EGR adapter (Edelbrock 1476 or equivalent) that moves the EGR rearward.
www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1476
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The TBI EGR valve has a different bolt pattern than the manifold. I fabricated a second adapter to make the TBI EGR valve fit the commercially-available adapter. Note especially the one counter-sunk screw. The EGR was the worst part of this operation. EGR valve bolts to the adapter plate, adapter plate bolts to the relocating adapter, which bolts to the manifold.
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The thin, center-mount adapter means the throttle body doesn't move much from it's original position, so fuel plumbing and throttle/cruise/TV cables fit nicely.
A thick, water-jacketed throttle body adapter lifts the throttle body, making plumbing and cables more interesting. MIGHT eliminate the IAC--EGR interference, though. I'd be concerned with hood clearance.
Power brake vacuum plumbing moves to the rear, behind the throttle body. The original tube gets cut, bent a little, spliced in with (red) hose, routed to the stock inverted-flare nipple screwed into a brass pipe-thread adapter in the boss behind the throttle body. Not shown in this photo is that the coil needs a simple, flat-steel bracket to bolt up to the manifold, and I think I drilled another hole in the coil bracket.
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The Dorman quick-coupler for the heater can be tapped on it's ID, (1/4" NPT, I think. Whatever the manifold accepts.) then a brass pipe-thread 45 degree street elbow and nipple screws right into the manifold to keep the heater connection more-or-less right where it was. Loctite/Permatex "592" strongly recommended for all vacuum and coolant threaded connections.
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The MAP sensor, EGR solenoid, and EST module bracket gets ground a little, bent a little, then secured with ONE bolt, to the hot-air choke provision of the manifold. Not perfect, but it's working for me. You're going to need a block-off plate and gasket for that hot-air choke opening.
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The brace from the alternator to the left side of the throttle body fits perfectly. The brace from the serpentine tensioner to the thermostat housing fits perfectly.
There is NO place to attach the brace from the A/C compressor to this manifold. I'm going to fabricate a brace from the A/C compressor to one of the intake manifold bolts...someday.
The cylinder heads I'm using are suggested to use with Fel-Pro 1256 intake gaskets. I've had some problems with intake gaskets pushing out of position after a year or so. For all I know, my manifold is warped/twisted.
How you're going to correct the manifold-to-head bolt hole angles is on you. Other folks have done it, and there's angled washers to make it work...but not something I've done or want to do.
Why not just use the TBI manifold and save yourself a heap of headache?