Bachert24
OBS Enthusiast
I’m told 217-3299 is the correct oneBe careful on what FPR you order. Several wrong ones will fit, but only a few have the proper pressure and i can not remember the number of the proper one.
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I’m told 217-3299 is the correct oneBe careful on what FPR you order. Several wrong ones will fit, but only a few have the proper pressure and i can not remember the number of the proper one.
P009D is a fuel pressure relief valve code... an L29 does not have one of those. You will never get such a code for a FPR in an L29. That is a code that will show up on Gen 3 LS motors.Has O2 sensors on the manifolds still. P00D9 is coming up as FPR or Fuel pump as likely culprit.
Many are listed as fitting, but most are the wrong pressure. I would not order a single one unless the pressure is listed in the description so you know it's the proper one.I’m told 217-3299 is the correct one
Thank you for this info I’ll do some testing this weekend! Fuel is 9 months old but only about 2-3 gallons I topped it off with a fresh 2 gallons. Everything I’ve read online states in a properly sealed fuel system there is no amount of degradation in the fuel itself.Scottm's comment about the gas is a good one. How old is it? If you don't know, you could save yourself a lot of headaches by using it to start a bonfire and replacing with new.
I'm not sure about the FPR you indicated, but FP10021 is definitely correct. That engine is more sensitive to the fuel pressure than most. Test the pressure. Key on, engine off should be 56-62 and hold steady. It won't hold steady forever, but if you can easily see it leaking down you have something that needs fixed. If it is lower, you need to figure out why and fix it. If it is within spec, the problem is elsewhere. That 1" piece of hose that runs the FPR needs replaced at your mileage. There is no manufacturer provided specification for running fuel pressure.
Unless your oil pressure sending unit has failed you are better off keeping it. Access sucks with the engine in the vehicle and nothing you can buy new is of equal quality to what the manufacturer installed on the assembly line. If you do replace it, be sure you buy or rent the appropriate special socket. It is not optional for the job.
Fair point but tires are flat and dry rotted lolGasoline degrades over time. The alcohol they add to gas now absorbs water from the atmosphere which does little to enhance the combustion process. 9 months would not typically be long enough to cause noticeable problems but, as previously stated, I am not convinced the tires on that truck sank that far into the dirt in 9 months. 2 gallons of lighter fluid + 2 gallons of gas won't get most internal combustion engines running very well.
Many are listed as fitting, but most are the wrong pressure. I would not order a single one unless the pressure is listed in the description so you know it's the proper one.
I ordered 3 or 4 before i found the proper one.
Ok finally tested fuel pressure key on I’m getting 54 and it doesn’t hold long gets down to 48 within 30 secondsScottm's comment about the gas is a good one. How old is it? If you don't know, you could save yourself a lot of headaches by using it to start a bonfire and replacing with new.
I'm not sure about the FPR you indicated, but FP10021 is definitely correct. That engine is more sensitive to the fuel pressure than most. Test the pressure. Key on, engine off should be 56-62 and hold steady. It won't hold steady forever, but if you can easily see it leaking down you have something that needs fixed. If it is lower, you need to figure out why and fix it. If it is within spec, the problem is elsewhere. That 1" piece of hose that runs the FPR needs replaced at your mileage. There is no manufacturer provided specification for running fuel pressure.
Unless your oil pressure sending unit has failed you are better off keeping it. Access sucks with the engine in the vehicle and nothing you can buy new is of equal quality to what the manufacturer installed on the assembly line. If you do replace it, be sure you buy or rent the appropriate special socket. It is not optional for the job.
Well, that verifies you have a fuel pressure issue.. but doesn't narrow down why. You could have a bad check valve in the pump, leaking injectors, or a bad regulator. If you block off the return line and the fuel pressure builds above 60 PSI and doesn't bleed down anymore, you will have narrowed it down to the FPR.Ok finally tested fuel pressure key on I’m getting 54 and it doesn’t hold long gets down to 48 within 30 seconds