I took the rocker arms off #6 and hooked air up to the spark plug port, air went right out the exhaust pipe. So I plan to take the head off next weekend starting Fri after work. I spent an hour or so working the valve with ATF up and down and around, at first it was stuck, now it's 90% free...
so an update. I just found a piece of small spring under valve cover, turns out its from the valve stem seal on #6. still have 0 compression. I'm about to change the seal on exhaust and intake on 6, because I'm still having missing codes come up and rough idle.
took off the bank 2 valve cover, #6 push rod was bent and off the hat. took a rubber mallet to straighten and put it back in. I had to tighten around 3 turns for it to seat but still have a little play. doesn't die at stop lights anymore. about to replace the new downstream o2's with the old...
yes if i had the tooth alignment off by around by like 20%, it would throw a cmp code not aligning with crank shaft position sensor. I believe the harmonic balancer shifts over time and you have to use the pencil in the #1 spark plug hole trick to get true TDC. This problem turns out to be bad...
Here's what I think happened, and tell me if I'm wrong. Head gasket is blowing slowly from age, startin at cylinder 6 and moving it's break around. because bank 1 side is pretty good compression except the back 7 headed to the other side.
just read the last response and I believe it makes sense...
I ordered all 4 O2 sensors off amazon for $45, the OEM ones are $60+ a piece. put the old ones back on and my obd2 readings came back to life. Compression test revealed blown head gasket. = new engine. Those cheap sensors on amazon do not work for this truck. I spent a lot of time on the fuel...
so yeah compression verdict in. #2- 109, #4- 131, #6- 0, #8- 138,
#1- 145, #3- 150, #5- 140, #7- 132.
does that sound like head gasket? no coolant in oil or blowing smoke of any kind.