Yukon Duragrip/US Standard ring and pinion

[kennythewelder]

There is a brake in period where the gears are going to ware themselves into each other. There will be some metal shavings that will be inside of the diff housing. IDK what your hearing, or how loud the noise is. If all is in spec, it does take some time for the gears to set in place. I'm not saying that you don't have an issue, IDK if you do or not. Also the torque drag on the pinion bearing preload will be or will feel different when the tires are on the truck. I didn't use a crush sleeve. I used a crush sleeve eliminator kit. I am so glad I did. My front seal leaked, and I had to replace it. Using the eliminator kit, I didn't have to worry about messing up the pinion preload. Once it's set, that's is. There is no changing it. I will say this and it may help, IDK. Once the pinion preload is set, the next thing, is the carrier back lash. If you pull the cover, pull the tires off and the drive shaft off, and recheck all of your settings. If you don't have an inch pounds torque wrench for the pinion preload, you need one.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Yeah, we pulled the whole rear end and did it on the bench, much easier that way!


^^^X2! I did my 4.11 swap a couple years ago, it's been quiet since day one, and I don't drive it like an old lady either

Here's what I wound up with a backlash of ~.008".

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That's sexy right there!

 

[Frank Enstein]

Moving the carrier got my bl to around 8.
Pattern was still good. Tightening the pinion nut and crushing the sleeve was an adventure in itself. Had to use the floor jack to get it to finally start collapsing. Making a dot, several dots with a black Sharpie helped to see that the socket was actually turning as I was trying to get the final tighten for the preload. It's just a slow process with potential to turn to s*** and make you start over. Gotta put cover on,fill with oil and put driveshaft in and see what it do. US Std Gear manual recommended synthetic. Yukon recommended conventional and additive. I got conventional. How come new vehicles don't need to have a break in period?
Hmm? Cletus hooks up his new Z71 with 64 miles on it to his '02 Skeeter and heads to Pontchartrain.
I'm going to get a biscuit (SEC), in my van.
Appreciate y'all

Next time
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-4109
those torque to 125 ft./lbs.
I would have mentioned it before but I thought the pinion was already buttoned up.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Next time
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-4109
those torque to 125 ft./lbs.

Yeah, I used the Yukon Gear pn YGA-55048 "Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kit" too. I'll never go back to the old school crush sleeve. IDK why this one is so much more expensive than the one you posted - oh well

Yukon Gear & Axle SK CSGM8.5 Yukon Gear & Axle Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Yukon Gear & Axle Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Differential Pinion Bearing Spacers and Sleeves at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Catbox]

For what it is worth, when I destroyed a Detroit True Trac I had a Yukon Duragrip installed and this is what the pattern looked like when my rebuild guy put it all together.

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I don't know any of the specs he put it together with, but it has been silent and working great for the last 6 months.

Because I know the questions are going to come about the bad Detriot that is supposed to be unbreakable, here is a photo. I suspect that I had a slightly bent axle housing from when a wheel came off and that is what caused the gear to let go....

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[Steve A]

Here's a link to the siu automotive YT channel, covers the 10 bolt rear rebuild. Looong video but good info.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[ChrsLytn]

I toured the Nissan plant in Smyrna, TN back in 1998. The cars got to the end of the assembly line and went on the factory chassis dyno for a final test. A worker locked the cars into place and plugged a cable into the OBDII connector. I don't remember what activated the throttle, but the cars screamed straight to 10,000 rpm and 100+ mph on the dyno for about twenty seconds. Then it settled down, idled, they removed all the stuff, and an employee drove it to the back lot for shipping. They break them in like a boss, not much more is needed.

Somebody told me they went to a tire plant one time. Toyo or another Asian company. He said every tire they make is mounted on a wheel and way over inflated to check it's structural integrity I reckon. Makes sense. Every now and then they say you'd hear one blow. I bet your ass would still jump even if that's what you did every day. I'm sure they've got a shroud of some kind around em.
Starting to sprinkle west of Atlanta

There is a brake in period where the gears are going to ware themselves into each other. There will be some metal shavings that will be inside of the diff housing. IDK what your hearing, or how loud the noise is. If all is in spec, it does take some time for the gears to set in place. I'm not saying that you don't have an issue, IDK if you do or not. Also the torque drag on the pinion bearing preload will be or will feel different when the tires are on the truck. I didn't use a crush sleeve. I used a crush sleeve eliminator kit. I am so glad I did. My front seal leaked, and I had to replace it. Using the eliminator kit, I didn't have to worry about messing up the pinion preload. Once it's set, that's is. There is no changing it. I will say this and it may help, IDK. Once the pinion preload is set, the next thing, is the carrier back lash. If you pull the cover, pull the tires off and the drive shaft off, and recheck all of your settings. If you don't have an inch pounds torque wrench for the pinion preload, you need one.

My rear end had an open carrier and it made a definite high pitched whine that started between 40-50 and you'd hear it applying some pedal, not when you'd let off. What I'm hearing now is kinda like that. It's a whirr more than a whine, if that makes sense. It starts at 30-35, as I accelerate it gets more noticeable, let off it stops. I've got it on stands and got up to about 50.
I pulled the driveshaft and cover. BL is 8-9 and pattern appears to still be good. No major metal in gear oil, looked like some very fine stuff. Small amount on the magnet. I only went about 15 miles.
The pinion preload was below 20 using the beam type 1/4" in./lb torque wrench.
Can only go just over half a turn with it but you can see it up around 20 or so when it breaks loose then it's in the 15 range as it moves. I'm going to get gear oil and additive and run it again. I'm also gonna get a sleeve eliminator otw in case I do have to mess with the pinion.

Here's a link to the siu automotive YT channel, covers the 10 bolt rear rebuild. Looong video but good info.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[ChrsLytn]

Here's a link to the siu automotive YT channel, covers the 10 bolt rear rebuild. Looong video but good info.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I had seen it. He does cover it well. Thanks for the heads up.

Somebody told me they went to a tire plant one time. Toyo or another Asian company. He said every tire they make is mounted on a wheel and way over inflated to check it's structural integrity I reckon. Makes sense. Every now and then they say you'd hear one blow. I bet your ass would still jump even if that's what you did every day. I'm sure they've got a shroud of some kind around em.
Starting to sprinkle west of Atlanta

My rear end had an open carrier and it made a definite high pitched whine that started between 40-50 and you'd hear it applying some pedal, not when you'd let off. What I'm hearing now is kinda like that. It's a whirr more than a whine, if that makes sense. It starts at 30-35, as I accelerate it gets more noticeable, let off it stops. I've got it on stands and got up to about 50.
I pulled the driveshaft and cover. BL is 8-9 and pattern appears to still be good. No major metal in gear oil, looked like some very fine stuff. Small amount on the magnet. I only went about 15 miles.
The pinion preload was below 20 using the beam type 1/4" in./lb torque wrench.
Can only go just over half a turn with it but you can see it up around 20 or so when it breaks loose then it's in the 15 range as it moves. I'm going to get gear oil and additive and run it again. I'm also gonna get a sleeve eliminator otw in case I do have to mess with the pinion.

 

[ChrsLytn]

Somebody told me they went to a tire plant one time. Toyo or another Asian company. He said every tire they make is mounted on a wheel and way over inflated to check it's structural integrity I reckon. Makes sense. Every now and then they say you'd hear one blow. I bet your ass would still jump even if that's what you did every day. I'm sure they've got a shroud of some kind around em.
Starting to sprinkle west of Atlanta

My rear end had an open carrier and it made a definite high pitched whine that started between 40-50 and you'd hear it applying some pedal, not when you'd let off. What I'm hearing now is kinda like that. It's a whirr more than a whine, if that makes sense. It starts at 30-35, as I accelerate it gets more noticeable, let off it stops. I've got it on stands and got up to about 50.
I pulled the driveshaft and cover. BL is 8-9 and pattern appears to still be good. No major metal in gear oil, looked like some very fine stuff. Small amount on the magnet. I only went about 15 miles.
The pinion preload was below 20 using the beam type 1/4" in./lb torque wrench.
Can only go just over half a turn with it but you can see it up around 20 or so when it breaks loose then it's in the 15 range as it moves. I'm going to get gear oil and additive and run it again. I'm also gonna get a sleeve eliminator otw in case I do have to mess with the pinion.

The last three pictures I sent were the most recent patterns. I took one of the pinion also. I didn't refill it and run it again yet. Went ahead and removed carrier an axles and checked pinion preload. It's at about 10 both directions so it loosened up a hair. It was about 15. I guess I'll wait till the sleeve eliminator gets here, redo the pinion and the preload. Ain't no sense in rushing it now.
Other than my ass is tired of crawling up under it.
Is the preload at 10 hazardous to the health of the pinion even if the patterns look good?
Do I need to get non- locking pinion nut to use when Im doing the sleeve eliminator? I guess it takes a few times figuring out the shims needed.
And use an old pinion nut run down on it to knock the pinion loose to keep from
messing up the threads and a new nut for the final countdown. Never did really like that song. But Pink Floyd or Jethro Tull, oh yeah.

 

[Frank Enstein]

There are some ring and pinion gears cut for more strength that might be a bit noisy. Check with the manufacturer to see if that is the case with yours. They may settle down after break in. Ask the vendor that and ask how they want them to be broken in too.

The pattern, preload, and backlash look fine to me. Ya just might have to turn the radio up for awhile!