Wheel Bearing Issue?

[jjupiter100]

First, a little background. In 2017 I replaced all front suspension components except the spindles and steering gear box. In August 2018, either my inner or outer or both wheel bearings on passenger side failed while I was driving and made a bad sound that sounded like my wheel collapsed in on itself or something (best way that I can describe it). Had it towed to a local shop who advised that because of the wheel bearing failure, the spindle got messed up as well as brake rotor hub, etc. So they replaced everything.
I think that caused my frame to get out of whack, so had to take it to another shop to get frame straightened. It was out by about an inch.

Finished replacing my steering gear box a few weeks ago and went to test drive it and now I have that same popping sound coming from driver's side, although not nearly as bad as passenger side. I'm almost certain the popping/clicking was not there before I replaced the steering box. But...it did sit for about 6 weeks before I got around to it, so maybe my memory is failing me.

I replaced outer wheel bearing first and that helped a little. Replaced inner wheel bearing and that helped even more, but it's still doing it. Mostly when I go from a stop sign/light/etc. It won't normally do it while truck is in motion.

Maybe it's because I didn't torque spindle nut properly? Entirely possible as I wasn't able to find any good techniques online. Any time I've removed rotor before, I've always just tightened it and inserted cotter pin and went on about my day. Had this truck for 17 years, and this is the first time it's been doing this.

Before taking it back to the shop to diagnose, I'm hopeful someone on here might know what to do.

 

[wheelman]

If it was just a wheel bearing and not a big hole in the road.your spindle should be ok.maybe that frame was bent before the wheel bearing.went

If you greased the wheel bearing,s right and you did get american made parts.and new seals.maybe you over tightened.

With out a work wrench I all ways snuged the but tight.not lock down tight.then I would back off and put the nut cover and key in.that keeps it all

From backing away.and I would spin the wheel.look and see.that it rolls straight.i helped a friend one time.he had replaced the bearings like three

Months.they just fell apart.found out they were from.made to break country.i got him to get american parts and we did both sides.no more problems.

But if you locked those bearings up.by putting the big arm hurt on them.you may of ruined them.

 

[jjupiter100]

Inner was National Bearing and outer was MasterPro. Not sure if they're American made or not.
I guess it's counter intuitive to not tighten too much. I always use a pair of pliers and tighten as much as I can and then back off as needed until cotter pin can be inserted.

 

[c1500deathtrap]

If it was just a wheel bearing and not a big hole in the road.your spindle should be ok.maybe that frame was bent before the wheel bearing.went

If you greased the wheel bearing,s right and you did get american made parts.and new seals.maybe you over tightened.

With out a work wrench I all ways snuged the but tight.not lock down tight.then I would back off and put the nut cover and key in.that keeps it all

From backing away.and I would spin the wheel.look and see.that it rolls straight.i helped a friend one time.he had replaced the bearings like three

Months.they just fell apart.found out they were from.made to break country.i got him to get american parts and we did both sides.no more problems.

But if you locked those bearings up.by putting the big arm hurt on them.you may of ruined them.

If the wheel bearing locked up and seized, then they might have spun on the spindle in which case you need to replace the spindle.
Given the short life of the parts you installed, i would suspect improper greasing technique, poor parts, or improper tightening of the spindle nut. How did you grease them? How did you tighten the spindle nut? The correct way is to spin the hub while you apply torque to the hub nut (12ish lbft? not sure) to seat the bearings then back of to the nearest cotter key slot if needed. But never more than 1 nut flat. I always just apply torque with a ratchet ( one handed not leaning on it) until the nut stops taking up, then key it.

 

[jjupiter100]

I packed grease in them by applying grease to my palm and smashing the bearing into it to push it into the housing until it was full of grease and then some.
I tightened the nut with a pair of pliers while spinning the rotor. I may have over-tightened, but once I was done tightening, I backed off until I could insert cotter pin.
I took it to a shop to diagnose and they could only recreate the click once.
I drove it home and it clicked 7 times. It does it more when it's warmed up a bit and usually only when I'm starting off from a stop sign/light.

I started wondering today if it was engine knock. I've never experienced that and don't know what it sounds like.
You can hear this and feel a vibration when it does it. It's not major or anything, but it's definitely noticeable to me. Like when you stand up and your knee pops or something.

 

[c1500deathtrap]

look at the motor mounts.

 

[454cid]

Maybe the cat shield? I had mine vibrate every time I was in a drive-thru, but when I'd go home and look under the truck everything looked fine. I don't remember how I eventually found it, but I think I was poking around under the truck looking for something else maybe.... maybe had it in gear with the wheels blocked.

It got so bad a teenage girl, maybe early 20's, working the drive-thru told me that maybe I should get my truck checked out

 

[Schurkey]

I always use a pair of pliers and tighten as much as I can and then back off as needed until cotter pin can be inserted.

Way too tight.

"Official" technique is to use torque wrench as stated.

I put the nut as tight as I can get it holding it with the fingers of one hand, while spinning rotor/drum. Then back off, get it finger tight (two fingers) and back off until the cotter pin goes in.

Ball bearings need some preload--but ball wheel bearings were done in the 1950s.. Tapered roller bearings need a thousandth or two of slack.




Packing bearings by slapping them into a palm-full of grease can work just fine. I prefer to use an inexpensive bearing packer. Less mess, MUCH faster.
https://smile.amazon.com/GearWrench...YDYE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543471965&sr=8-4

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[jjupiter100]

I looked around a lot online and couldn't find the proper way to tighten the wheel bearing. Haynes manual was crap for that.
I will loosen and retighten as you stated above this weekend. Thanks for the pro tip.
Packing the bearing was how my dad taught me, but that little device looks nice. And just about nothing can be messier than doing it the way I've been doing it, so that'll save some rags/paper towels in the process.

I've decided it was not making this sound before I replaced the steering box. So that is making me think it has something to do with that. 2 of the 3 bolts I tightened to spec (whatever the Haynes manual said, I can't remember now) and I couldn't get in there to the top one with my torque wrench, so I just tightened as best I could with a ratchet and cheater bar.
I was thinking maybe the box was shifting slightly when I take off and that's what's making the clunk sound. It's so weird that it's intermittent and doesn't do it until I've been driving it for about 15 minutes.