Volt Meter Tester Question

[Bigg G]

I'm trying to troubleshoot an electrical issue **focking blower fan** and I need to purchase a new volt meter tester.
Is there any particular model or brand I should be looking at or will the basic household volt meter tester get the job done ?

 

[Aloicious]

I'm trying to troubleshoot an electrical issue **focking blower fan** and I need to purchase a new volt meter tester.
Is there any particular model or brand I should be looking at or will the basic household volt meter tester get the job done ?

you're referring to a multimeter? I would get a digital one if I were you, they aren't very expensive and IMO are far better than the analog ones. as far as brands go, most brands do a decent job. sure there are some brands that people will recommend over other, like Fluke (which is a good test equipment brand), but they can run alot of money. if you're just getting a DMM for things here and there, you don't need to spend hundreds on a DMM. FWIW, I have 2 DMM's from this company here: http://www.iequus.com/Product/Diagnostic/digital.html I have the model 3320 and 3340, one is in my truck at all times, the other I keep at home for stuff there. both have worked very well for several years, and they run off regular AA batteries (only needed to change one set of batteries out in the past 2 years or so). IIRC the 3320 model cost around $30, and the 3340 cost around $80, got 'em at my local O'rileys auto parts store. both can do either DC or AC power, the 3340 has some cool features (it has a temperature probe, and has some cool automotive features), but its physically bigger and honestly I don't use the extra features too often.

 

[SuperStepside]

I have a cheapy Sears digital one. Kinda slow but it gets the job done. Like said above Fluke is the best one out there but rather expensive. Their most recent model comes with a lifetime warranty now too.

 

[Butch]

I have a cheapy Sears digital one. Kinda slow but it gets the job done.

X2 been using the same one for a few years, its done every thing I've needed it to from motorcycles to houses.

 

[71 cuda man]

you don't need a Fluke.Way to expensive if you lose it.I'm a licensed low voltage contractor & don't use mine.It just sits it the toolbox .Just go to Harbor Freight & get Cen Tech model # P37772.Its around $20-$25 .The one I use I've had for over 2yrs & use it everyday.I've basically beat the hell out of it with no problems.i've dropped it for 12ft ladders more than once & it still works great.It has a nice big screen that folds out to 90 degrees.Basically it does everything you will ever need & more

 

[DRAGGIN95]

I work on electronic's for a living, I like Fluke, but I use my meter on a daily basis, I personally have a Fluke 77 right now, great meter and always work's when you need it.

 

[Bigg G]

Thanks for all the great tips guys.
Just needed something inexpensive, basic and simple that's all.
I just ordered a brand new Equss EPI3320 from ToolTopia for $28.00 delivered.

 

[Bigg G]

Fedex delivered this to me yesterday and now all I need is some good tips/and advice on using it to find/fix my problem.
This will be my 1st stab at using a multimeter so keep it elementary guys.

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[Aloicious]

I don't know what to look for in your specific blower motor problem, perhaps someone else can help with that, but thats the same DMM I keep in my truck. here's some basics to help you get used to using it, sorry if they're really basic, I don't know how familliar you are with electicity or using a multimeter. the settings you'll use mostly are going to be the DCV (DC voltage), and the Ohms (omega symbol, its a measurement of resistance). plug the red probe into the far right red circled port, and the black probe into the middle non-red circled port. remember that your black probe is the ground. so if you're probing around for wires looking for a positive signal, you can find a good ground for the black probe and poke around with the red one to see what voltage you're getting. if you're unfamiliar with how to use it, you can practice on various stuff, like probing the battery using the DCV setting, try it with the truck off, and again with the truck on, you can monitor your alternator output, verify that the dash voltage gauge is correct, etc. something else you can check is the resistance of wires and such to look for problems. like when I get new spark plug wires, I always check their ohms. just set the DMM to the ohm setting (the omega symbol), and put one probe on one end of the plug wire, and the other probe on the other end, and read the amout of resistance each plug wire has, you want them to be in the same ballpark (they're not going to be identical), but one wire with a really high impedence is a sign of a bad wire. one thing to note if you're using the ohm setting, is if you look at the top of the display, you'll see a K, an M, and an ohm symbol, so if you're probing something, if just the ohm symbol is on, then the number is just ohms, if the K and the ohm symbol is on, then the display number is kilohms (i.e. 10^3 ohms), and if the M and ohm symbol are on, then the display number is megaohms (10^6 ohms)... hope thats not too simplistic, and that it helps. if you have questions feel free to ask

oh and BTW, when people are new to using DMM's I've seen one issue that may cause a faulty reading, when you're using the probes, don't touch the metal parts of the tip (just hold on to the plastic casing of the probe), you conduct electricity too, it's probably not going to shock you or anything, but it could cause faulty readings.

 

[94_C/1500]

I've got a Fluke 115. I had an instructor at school throw one against a block wall to show us how well it holds up, it still worked.

I don't know about your meter, but measuring anything over 10 amps will blow the fuse in mine.