Truckin'Ain'tForSissies RCSB Dedicated Thread

[TruckinAin4Sissies]

It's been a minute

Sup guys?

Ok, got a progress report.

I've been working hard at the interior plastic panels, ****'s hard to do by hand (no DA or other sander).
I got my quarterly bonus + an incentive bonus so I bought a few things...
Bought some LED's for this:

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I plan on a full conversion.

Escalade cluster for a whopping $56 shipped!

2-yards of dark suede
________QUESTION: It doesn't have the foam backing. Could I substitute a 1/8" sound deadener for the backing on the headliner?
I plan on buying 1/8" foam and using the other suede on the sunvisors & door panels (top & bottom)________

3" exhaust from a 1-ton that has a Magnaflow muffler $25
Magnaflow Y-Pipe $22

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And some other LED's for a side project (you'll "See")

 

[nate3531]

very nice, post up a sound clip or vid when you get that exhaust on. That is the same setup I have except I have a 40 series (it was free) instead of a Magnaflow.

 

[TruckinAin4Sissies]

very nice, post up a sound clip or vid when you get that exhaust on. That is the same setup I have except I have a 40 series (it was free) instead of a Magnaflow.

Will do. I'll take before & after vids.

 

[TruckinAin4Sissies]

Woot Woot!

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[sewlow]

I wouldn't use the sound deadener for between the headliner panel & the fabric. As a backing, like you said. Too heavy for the panel to support that kinda weight. If your suede has no backing, what you need to use is 'closed-cel' foam. It's what those non-inflatable camping mattresses are made of. It is available in all different thicknesses. I'd use 1/8". Only because of the weight of the suede. If you were to use 1/4", then you would, again, have problems with the panel supporting the combined weight. Closed-cel is a bit more dense, than the poly-foam that comes on the back of regular head liner fabric.
Before you start to put glue on the foam, take an 80 or 100 grit sanding disc, folded in half, amd just scuff the top layer of the closed-cel. Doesn't have to be done a lot. A one direction swipe is fine. Scuff on a 45, across the foam, then on a 90 from that. What you want to do is just break that top skin a bit, so that the glue has something to grip.
A couple of light coats of glue are better than one heavy.

Use the 1/8" poly foam for the visors.

Don't know what kind of experience that you have doing this kind of thing, but feel free to ask me whatever Q's ya got.

 

[TruckinAin4Sissies]

I wouldn't use the sound deadener for between the headliner panel & the fabric. As a backing, like you said. Too heavy for the panel to support that kinda weight. If your suede has no backing, what you need to use is 'closed-cel' foam. It's what those non-inflatable camping mattresses are made of. It is available in all different thicknesses. I'd use 1/8". Only because of the weight of the suede. If you were to use 1/4", then you would, again, have problems with the panel supporting the combined weight. Closed-cel is a bit more dense, than the poly-foam that comes on the back of regular head liner fabric.
Before you start to put glue on the foam, take an 80 or 100 grit sanding disc, folded in half, amd just scuff the top layer of the closed-cel. Doesn't have to be done a lot. A one direction swipe is fine. Scuff on a 45, across the foam, then on a 90 from that. What you want to do is just break that top skin a bit, so that the glue has something to grip.
A couple of light coats of glue are better than one heavy.

Use the 1/8" poly foam for the visors.

Don't know what kind of experience that you have doing this kind of thing, but feel free to ask me whatever Q's ya got.

Thanks Sewlow! I need to scuff it up prior- got it !

This is definitely my first time doing any sort of interior restoration, much respect for those of you that have mastered the art!
So I'll use CCF for the roof and 1/8" on the visors and door inserts.

What would you recommend to repair the A pillar? The small end (rear of cab) cracked.

Also I'm lookin to Fiberglass the door panel, any tips?

 

[sewlow]

Do you have the broken piece? Crazy glue with the accelerant. The spray that you hit the glue with after the pieces have been glued together. Spray from the backside, because the accelerant will turn the crazy glue, & the plastic, white. You might have to glue a back-up piece of plastic to the back side of the break. Try to use as small as a piece as possible, but still holds the two pieces together. The accelerant really helps to make the bond permanent. Without it the crazy glue bond is kinda brittle. Once the glue has set, then you can sand down the back-up piece if there is any fitment problems. You may have to dye it.
Finicky work & a bit of a pain to do without gluing your fingers together or to the plastic. I've done that. (Actually have used crazy glue as a band-aid to hold some pretty deep cuts together. Razor knives, y'know!) Nail polish remover will get your fingers apart. You might be better off getting a wrecker piece & then redying that to match your interior.

For fiberglass, don't mix up your resin too hot. Doing that doesn't make it stonger, just more brittle & prone to cracking. Other than that, it's basic body work. If you're using 'Bondo' for a skim coat, use a flex agent such as what is used for flexible bumpers. This can be an additive to the regular bondo or can be purchased already with that in it. This wont crack due the doors being closed too hard or from road vibration. There is probably other members with more experience than me when it comes to doing this, but this the what that I've done & I've had no complaints (so far!)

And your right that the plastic sanding is a LOT of work. That's why most trucks that have this mod are done by the owner. Paying a shop to do that can add up pretty quick. In the long run though, it makes a huge statement about the owner's commitment & level of work put into the vehicle. That pic of the white interior is amazing. Being an interior guy, I've seriously considered doing this, but after a day of working on other people's interiors, the motivation to dive into a project such as this for myself can be a little hard to find.

Basic tip for doing upholstery...start from the center & move out from there. This applies to about 85% of upholstery work. One of the first things I was taught that I use on a daily basis.

 

[sewlow]

That 3" exhaust is gonna wake up your truck's perfomance, if not your neighbours! I love the sound of mine, even behind the old 6. I put a resonator on mine. Took that rrrraaaappp sound away from it when winding it out. Can't wait to hear it behind an LS engine. Good scoop for $25.00!

 

[TruckinAin4Sissies]

Hey guys,
Just a little update here.

I've been hard at work with the interior lately. It should be somewhat done as soon as I find some cheap deadener.

I've also been methin-out on some LEDs.

Here's some random pictures:

I need more room for LEDs!

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Super secret project....

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This strip (of LEDs I made) is stupid bright, check out my ceiling

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Another super secret project... Peep the needle

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[TruckinAin4Sissies]

Here's an update ya'll

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Lookin' good so far, just need to dry, wet sand then clear