First I am running 9.5 (or Better) ceramic coated Keith Black D shaped pistons with Stock 193 swill port heads with ceramic coatings, A custom grind performance cam with Roades roller lifters to full roller 1.6 rockers.
Pistons to fit a
350 +0.030, of course. If you bought "383" pistons, you're in trouble.
Swill-port heads. Good name. The HEADS are "ceramic coated"?
WHICH "full-roller 1.6 rockers? They'd better be
self-aligning or you're in trouble.
By the numbers I should have a nice MILD street cam below 2500/3000 with strong torque curve at 1500 RPMs and come alive at 2500/3000RPMs to 5000RPMs. I have been told I can exspaect a nice flat torque curve.
Maybe. I've never used Rhodes lifters, some guys really like 'em. I'm not thrilled with the valves slamming into the seats at lower rpm. Folks don't realize that the "ticking" noise is from the valves/valve seats pounding each other.
Your power curve is also going to depend on the fuelling and ignition advance.
The block is a .30 over 350, with a turned 400 Crank, and 400 rods, tefon coated skirts, gapless second ring by Total Seal.
Not a fan of OEM 400 rods. They've got a poor reputation for being weak. They do take some headache out of buying pistons, though.
I haven't heard any mention of getting the bottom-end balanced. Very recommended. You'll need the flexplate to go with the 400 crank. The bolt-circle is larger than the one-piece rear-main cranks. What block are you using? If you're starting with a one-piece-seal block, you'll need an adapter.
Haven't heard anything about getting the block decked so that those pistons have a reasonable quench distance. 'Course, that will also depend on the head gaskets you use. If the pistons haven't been "destroked", they'll likely be ~.025 in the hole. Add a typical .040 headgasket, and you've got .065 quench--perfect for detonation. Zero-deck the block, your head gasket thickness IS your quench distance, and .040 is about perfect.
I wouldn't walk across the street for free "gapless" second rings. Gapless TOP rings...maybe. I've never used 'em. I just buy a decent Moly-top set, set the end-gap, and don't worry about it.
Given a choice, I'd prefer "thin" rings--the OEMs are using 1.5 and 2 mm ring thicknesses, 3mm on the oil ring--and that's good enough for me.
I now know the TBI adapter is a 454 unit and has had the gaps filler with expoxie.
Are you CERTAIN the epoxy can't come loose and get swallowed by a cylinder?
I have added a two inch riser between the Eldeblock performer intake and added a plate to maintain the manifold's left to right division.
So I have added 4 inches total with the riser and the 454 TBI adapter with the TBI setup on top.
My goal in as much torque at 1500 RPMs for a crusing RPMs between 1500 and 2000RPMs.
What do you think??
Four more inches seems...excessive.
How are you going to get the throttle, cruise, and trans TV cables to align? The stock TBI intake is probably taller than the Performer--it's almost exactly the same height as the "ZZ-series" intake, which is what I used. So
some of your additional height is going to make cable-routing better.
No EGR?
