4.3 tbi gutless on highway.

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justbinfishin

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I've been working my way through my 1988 K1500 with a 4.3 tbi and NV3500 manual transmission. I picked it up for cheap and it's been a fun project, but I'm in need of a fresh perspective. The truck has 40k on a the engine/160 on the body (Previous Owner had a FPR burst and wash down all the cylinders). The replacement was done in the late 90s, so it's gotten very few miles per year.

The only code I have is 32, because the EGR ports are completely sealed with hard carbon. I plan to clean them out when I do the lower intake manifold gaskets preventatively this winter.

I immediately rebuilt the TB to address weeping seals and replaced the FPR spring (was in 5-6 pieces). I replaced the injectors while doing so because the spray patterns weren't great. For brevity, every replacement part has been ACDELCO Pro/Gold/Whatever they called them at the time. I also replaced the IAC valve at this time, because the body of the original was cracked from being removed with channel locks at some point. I followed the IAC calibration methods I found on the web. The idle seems inconsistent and either a bit high or a bit low. I have searched extensively for vacuum leaks with propane and a carb cleaner and found nothing, but I replaced the PCV hose and EGR solenoid hose because the fittings looked suspect.

Shortly after the TB rebuild, I had a hard start when hot condition that turned out to be the pickup coil (insulation was degraded and corroded bare wires were visible). I replaced the whole distributor/cap/rotor, as well as wires/plugs because the old ones were of unknown vintage. I set the timing to 0 with the timing advance plug disconnected. I didn't like that the PO had autozone O2 and ECT sensors in there, so I replaced them. While the O2 sensor was out I checked exhaust back pressure, and it's flowing freely.

Once it was running smoothly, I was a bit surprised with how gutless it is on the highway. I wasn't expecting vortec performance, but my friend had one of these trucks with a 700r4 in college and it screamed by comparison. My 92 4.0 ranger with a thousand pounds of firewood in the bed was considerably peppier. On steeper highway hills I'm routinely having to hit 3rd and losing steam at 55mph.

A few weeks ago, it developed a miss/hesitation when cruising that would smooth out when accelerating. I checked my FP while driving with the gauge taped to my windshield, and the pressure was a steady 13 psi at all times, even with the accelerator floored getting up to speed. I traced that particular issue to the TPS, which was sitting at 0.7 volts at idle, and 4.0 at WOT, and the curve was not smooth on my analog voltmeter. I replaced it, and the new unit is 0.66-4.54v. The idle reading seems high to me, but the bolt holes leave no room to twist the sensor like you could on my old 6.2 diesel trucks.

I spent some time cleaning up the grounds under the hood yesterday because they were looking slightly crunchy. No improvement.

I checked the voltage supplied to each sensor, and noticed that the ECT plug is only supplying 4.1 volts from the computer. Should it be 5v?

I ordered a usb to obd1 plug so I can stream data on my laptop, but despite all my reading on these systems, I hope I'm just missing something obvious.

Thank you all.
 

Hipster

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With a manual you lose the benefits of torque converter torque multiplication, but still shouldn't be absolutely gutless. Make sure you're comparing apples to apples. You can have a vacuum leak from the underside of the intake and never pick up on it. That might be an address now issue.

I would want to see compression check numbers and would think the ect plug should be getting 5v.
 

RichLo

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What tire size are you running? If they are 285's then yea, its going to be a 4-speed.
 

justbinfishin

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What tire size are you running? If they are 285's then yea, its going to be a 4-speed.
245/75/16

*Edit: I have no idea what the gear ratio is, and I don't have a tach because it's the base of the base model. I'll check that. Also my fan clutch looks like the unit "for 3.42 or lower gear ratios" so I may be handicapped in the diffs. I just found a 14 bolt SF 6 lug off of a z71, so I'll be improving that shortly if that's the case.
 
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justbinfishin

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If the EGR is non-functional, the knock sensor is probably going crazy, leading to retarded timing--poor performance, poor fuel economy, poor throttle response.
It's also gutless in closed loop/cold. But that's a heck of a thought. Case in point for getting my data streaming capability off the ground.
 

thinger2

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If the EGR is non-functional, the knock sensor is probably going crazy, leading to retarded timing--poor performance, poor fuel economy, poor throttle response.
Yep. As a general base level rule of thumb,
If its packed full of crud it aint gonna work correctly.
That applies to bathtub drains, toilets, chimneys, beer taps, heart valves, arteries, intestinal tracts, nostrils...
If it is plugged full of crap?
It needs to be cleaned out before anything else will work properly.
If you find something that is obviously bad, stop what you are chasing and repair it.
It might not be the only source of your problem but it needs to be repaired anyway so now is the time to do it.
With a gacked up egr system you have basically two choices.
1...Repair it so it works properly.
2...Go through the process of deleting it.
You cant chuck parts at it and try to push that egr problem down the road.
It just doesnt work that way.
And dont forget about what Shurckey said about about the knock sensor.
If any of you folks have never replaced your knock sensor I can pretty well gaurantee you that it is hanging on for its life.
And the pigtail for it too.
Several internet superstars have taken a dump on the whole GMT400 platform over the last few years because they claim the wiring falls apart.
Its not the harness. Its the crusty 30 year old connections at the end of the harness.
Except the battery cables.
They are rotted and replacing them will solve a bunch of problems.
But all of those internet heroes are snarfing up gmt400 trucks as fast as they can.
The GMT400 platform is going to get mutilated by LS swaps and **** builds and that is our next generation of secondary market garbage cars.
after American Graffitti came out, every solid 32 ford in the country got snarffed up.
This lasted well into the mid 1980s.
Wait a sec, hold on, lemme guess!
Would you like that in yellow with flames and a smal block Chevy?
Wow! Its been an entire week since I blocked one of those out.
Right up untill the zz top eliminator and the fiberglass ****** body kits.
And we speciallized in doing bodywork on 40s and 50s caddillacs.
And 49-50 chopped Mercs.
I dont think I have tinnitus.
I have RBD
Repititive blocking disorder.
Thats when I moved into the drainage ditch out front and learned about hunting rats with a bondo grater .
I should have had a better plan.
I should have taken the salt, pepper, and garlic with me.
Bondo dust doesnt really form a crisp coating when you cook it.
 

RichLo

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Yep. As a general base level rule of thumb,
If its packed full of crud it aint gonna work correctly.
That applies to bathtub drains, toilets, chimneys, beer taps, heart valves, arteries, intestinal tracts, nostrils...
If it is plugged full of crap?
It needs to be cleaned out before anything else will work properly.
If you find something that is obviously bad, stop what you are chasing and repair it.
It might not be the only source of your problem but it needs to be repaired anyway so now is the time to do it.
With a gacked up egr system you have basically two choices.
1...Repair it so it works properly.
2...Go through the process of deleting it.
You cant chuck parts at it and try to push that egr problem down the road.
It just doesnt work that way.
And dont forget about what Shurckey said about about the knock sensor.
If any of you folks have never replaced your knock sensor I can pretty well gaurantee you that it is hanging on for its life.
And the pigtail for it too.
Several internet superstars have taken a dump on the whole GMT400 platform over the last few years because they claim the wiring falls apart.
Its not the harness. Its the crusty 30 year old connections at the end of the harness.
Except the battery cables.
They are rotted and replacing them will solve a bunch of problems.
But all of those internet heroes are snarfing up gmt400 trucks as fast as they can.
The GMT400 platform is going to get mutilated by LS swaps and **** builds and that is our next generation of secondary market garbage cars.
after American Graffitti came out, every solid 32 ford in the country got snarffed up.
This lasted well into the mid 1980s.
Wait a sec, hold on, lemme guess!
Would you like that in yellow with flames and a smal block Chevy?
Wow! Its been an entire week since I blocked one of those out.
Right up untill the zz top eliminator and the fiberglass ****** body kits.
And we speciallized in doing bodywork on 40s and 50s caddillacs.
And 49-50 chopped Mercs.
I dont think I have tinnitus.
I have RBD
Repititive blocking disorder.
Thats when I moved into the drainage ditch out front and learned about hunting rats with a bondo grater .
I should have had a better plan.
I should have taken the salt, pepper, and garlic with me.
Bondo dust doesnt really form a crisp coating when you cook it.

There's not many people still alive that can have a real honest gripe about American Graffitti, lol!

I can relate to the bondo dust at least. Have you ever done Lead work? Frenching those Mercs and Caddy's? That is a complete lost art and I olny hear about that in magazines and hear-say from the old days.
 

justbinfishin

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Yep. As a general base level rule of thumb,
If its packed full of crud it aint gonna work correctly.
That applies to bathtub drains, toilets, chimneys, beer taps, heart valves, arteries, intestinal tracts, nostrils...
If it is plugged full of crap?
It needs to be cleaned out before anything else will work properly.
If you find something that is obviously bad, stop what you are chasing and repair it.
It might not be the only source of your problem but it needs to be repaired anyway so now is the time to do it.
With a gacked up egr system you have basically two choices.
1...Repair it so it works properly.
2...Go through the process of deleting it.
You cant chuck parts at it and try to push that egr problem down the road.
It just doesnt work that way.
And dont forget about what Shurckey said about about the knock sensor.
If any of you folks have never replaced your knock sensor I can pretty well gaurantee you that it is hanging on for its life.
And the pigtail for it too.
Several internet superstars have taken a dump on the whole GMT400 platform over the last few years because they claim the wiring falls apart.
Its not the harness. Its the crusty 30 year old connections at the end of the harness.
Except the battery cables.
They are rotted and replacing them will solve a bunch of problems.
But all of those internet heroes are snarfing up gmt400 trucks as fast as they can.
The GMT400 platform is going to get mutilated by LS swaps and **** builds and that is our next generation of secondary market garbage cars.
after American Graffitti came out, every solid 32 ford in the country got snarffed up.
This lasted well into the mid 1980s.
Wait a sec, hold on, lemme guess!
Would you like that in yellow with flames and a smal block Chevy?
Wow! Its been an entire week since I blocked one of those out.
Right up untill the zz top eliminator and the fiberglass ****** body kits.
And we speciallized in doing bodywork on 40s and 50s caddillacs.
And 49-50 chopped Mercs.
I dont think I have tinnitus.
I have RBD
Repititive blocking disorder.
Thats when I moved into the drainage ditch out front and learned about hunting rats with a bondo grater .
I should have had a better plan.
I should have taken the salt, pepper, and garlic with me.
Bondo dust doesnt really form a crisp coating when you cook it.
Generally how I roll. I was unaware that the EGR-Knock Sensor-Retarded timing loop was an option, but the logic tracks. Since I'm already planning to pull the lower intake, I figured that'd be the only way to clean them out completely. I assume I'd of found this out when my USB-OBD1 cable shows up on Friday and I can look at the info.

I must defend my honor however regarding "chucking parts". I have not replaced a single thing that didn't test bad or was visibly deteriorated/damaged except for the O2 and ECT sensors the PO put in from Autozone. I don't trust their parts as far as I can throw them after I had two of their fuel pumps fail in a year when I was 19. A warranty I have to use every few months doesn't do me much good.
 
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