Sub Wiring Two DVC 2ohm with 4ohm Stable Amp

[4ofakind]

What you are doing is wiring all your voice coils in series. Start from one point in a continuous line to the end point. If any one conection should fail. All would fail. That is the definition of a series circuit. This increases resistence. So the two 2 ohm voice coils will act as one 4 ohm voice coil. Since you have two subs; The NOW two 4 ohm subs will act as one 8 ohm sub.
Bridging (and parallel wiring) reduces resistence. So bridging the two subs that are wired in series will bring the resistence the amp feels back down to 4 ohms.

Mal

 

[darren250r]

I understand ohms law and appreciate your explanation. Its clear what you're explaining. Just another quick couple questions... So, the positive and negative wires that get hooked to the amp will be hooked up in the bridged configuration, right? Why is it not 8 ohms when wired the way you're describing?

 

[4ofakind]

Right to your first question.
The only way I can explain your second question is this:
It is still 8 ohms; but to the amp it feels like only 4 because you are using both channels in a bridged config. Like using a v8 in a fiero instead of a 4 cyl. The car still weighs the same , but you are using more power to push the weight.

Read This link: http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm

Mal

 

[4ofakind]

Ok darren I must admit I was wrong. I have always operated under the myth that if you bridge an amp you cut the impedence in half. (would explain the low volumes of my previous systems) I am sorry. To get 4ohms with what you have, you will have to use your DVC subs as SVC subs. It will max the output of the amp but fall short of the full potential of your subs. Or you could find another 501s on ebay and run one to each sub bridged series.

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Again sorry for my misinformation.

Mal

 

[Cablguy184]

Please read this to better understand amps ... http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_amplifiers/car_audio_amplifiers.htm

If you wire a 4 ohm stable amp up to 2 ohms bridged, you will destroy your amp ...
if you go 8 ohms mono, you should get the most out of that amp ... (wire everything in series) ...
That is a class A/B amp ... not a class D ...
my suggestion (if you want to run lower ohm loads) would be to buy a mono block amp and run at 2 ohms, or get different subs ...
just my suggestion here ...
Randal ...

 

[T DOG]

You either need a different amp, different subs, run just one sub, or run them both at 8 ohms.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/wiring.php

 

[darren250r]

So, I ended up hooking it up like this way. It pounds pretty good. Should I try it bridged at 8ohm? I'm considering getting 2 new 4ohm DVC subs to run them bridged at 4ohm. I'd just put these in my other truck and car. Would doing that give me a big improvement?

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here ya go

 

[MOBS]

For that amp to run 2 subs bridged at the highest efficiency(lowest stable ohms), it would need dvc4 subs, not dvc2. Running a dvc sub on 1 coil will destroy the coils. Running the current setup bridged with an 8-ohm impedance will require more wattage to achieve same decibels, in short, it'll be quieter. I'd also recommend a class-D amp, they're much more efficient than a class-A or B. A class-T would be my personal choice, but they're pretty pricey. If you're preferring a stereo effect, you can get a second amp like the one you have, then wire each sub in serial and bridge each amp so you have an individual sub/amp combo for each channel(Left and Right), this just requires a splitter from each rca plug-in on your cables, so your left channel cable has 2 outputs along with your right channel cable, and your left channel cable hooks to the inputs of amp-1 and right channel cable hooks to inputs of amp-2.

Can you tell me what model your 2 new subs are?

 

[darren250r]

I got the Fosgate shallow P3SD212.

 

[MOBS]

Oh good, you got the punch series....I was hoping you didnt have the prime series, I was gonna recommend using them as ashtrays.

Those subs are 400watts each, that amp is a 500w. I'd really suggest either finding another one like it, or getting a reputable class-D monoblock stable at 2ohms with an rms ~800+.