seized 98 vortec 350

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Werterion

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haven't seen anything relevant to removing a seized motor from a transmission. any pointers i should know before it warms up enough in a week or 2 to get this underway? just got myself a replacement motor from a fine fine looking prairie truck, want to get my truck going as soon as i can.
 

Jewbacca

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Its no problem. Same as if the motor was free. You could always pull the motor and trans together to have 360 degree access.
 

Werterion

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thats exactly what im trying to figure out how to do. want to come up with a plan of action before i try to do it and break my perfectly fine trans (less then 60k on it). i've never had to remove a seized motor from a transmission before, so new territory for me.
 

skylark

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Undo all of the bellhousing bolts except the bottom two. Have the engine ready to pull. Lift the engine and tranny together until the tranny tops out against the tranny tunnel. Use a jack with a block of wood under the tranny pan and unbolt the last two bolts. Slide the engine and torque converter out of the truck. Be prepared for a ton of tranny fluid to drain out or else your floor will look like a murder scene.
 

Werterion

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Undo all of the bellhousing bolts except the bottom two. Have the engine ready to pull. Lift the engine and tranny together until the tranny tops out against the tranny tunnel. Use a jack with a block of wood under the tranny pan and unbolt the last two bolts. Slide the engine and torque converter out of the truck. Be prepared for a ton of tranny fluid to drain out or else your floor will look like a murder scene.

i have to do this in a townhouse parking lot, no nice creature comforts of a nice heated garage for me atm. any possible way to remove it without the mess lol. if i can leave the trans in truck would be preferable. wondering if i can disconnect the connecting rods from crank and have it free up enough to be able to turn it. anyone ever done that? only gm motors i have worked on were on a stand at the time .all the motors i ever swapped were dodge and fords, so just different enough and having to do it in a parking lot i certainly want to have a good approach in mind as well. trans is going to make a mess however i look at it because it has no drain plug in its pan (i know some of them do, but mine certainly doesn't )


i bought the truck for $500, rot free frame and minimal rot on box needs some work on passenger side of cab. absolutely pristine interior. typical rust around box wheel wells. had a knock that went away when put under load (ie driving it) decided to drive it the 1.5km back to my place.... needless to say horrible idea, thought it was the flexplate.... truck made it less then a km then dropped dead and seized right there...... i dropped pan when i got back here with it and found that oil pump was in pieces, so no wonder it dropped dead on me. so totally dicked, i couldn't even get it to budge with a 4 ft breaker bar on the crank with 3 people on the bar, i did a good job and i wasn't even trying lol. typically if im going to blow something up its from doing something with it that it had no place in really doing.
 
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