Shoot, if there aren't any metal bits in the pan and it's not leaking, I'd be hard pressed not to just replace the cam, lifters, and pushrods and put it back together. That's a far sight cheaper than a rebuild.
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Shoot, if there aren't any metal bits in the pan and it's not leaking, I'd be hard pressed not to just replace the cam, lifters, and pushrods and put it back together. That's a far sight cheaper than a rebuild.
Agree. Or find a good, complete, running engine with good oil pressure. Do valve seals and go.If that's what's in your oil pan id just replace the whole thing with the gm crate...
Agree. Or find a good, complete, running engine with good oil pressure. Do valve seals and go.
Crate long truck block would be ideal. These days machine work (such that it is) to restore a damaged block and sevice heads will cost as much as going crate. There are a lot of good 150k used complete engine still in trucks too. No one wants Suburbans. '96-'99 are the same. The electronics are not the same, but hard parts are.
The crate long block assumes that your FI system is in good condition.
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Could be a rocker arm bolt. They will back out. Starts off as a tick, gets gradually louder. Runs normally.Maybe I should move opening mine up on the list...there's a mysterious tick that won't go away and I chalked it up to an exhaust leak...
Could be a rocker arm bolt. They will back out. Starts off as a tick, gets gradually louder. Runs normally.
And I have a nice set of 7.4 Vortec stock exhaust manifolds if you find a need.
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