sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
I've had the same thing happen. Now, when I replace rotors, I have 'em machined right out of the box. Even the high-end, drilled & slotted ones I bought, were out enough to justify a quick turning.
pulsating brake pedal?
- Thread starter FastOrange
- Start date
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I've had the same thing happen. Now, when I replace rotors, I have 'em machined right out of the box. Even the high-end, drilled & slotted ones I bought, were out enough to justify a quick turning.
FastOrange
OBSless
Anyone ever heard of rear drums being out of round? guys on FSC were mentioning it
Replaced the MC today and Bypassed the ABS, pedal is very nice and firm (will be doing this on my 94) but STILL pulsates, especially at higher speeds.
Replaced the MC today and Bypassed the ABS, pedal is very nice and firm (will be doing this on my 94) but STILL pulsates, especially at higher speeds.
RHamill
Ryan
Yep, I rarely put drums on vehicles at work, but being an 89 the drums probably haven't been changed in a long time, get some new drums and shoes and see where you're at.
Swaggerwagon
¯\(°_o)/¯
I'm gonna call the rear drums as the culprit here...
FastOrange
OBSless
i wish i had a spare truck here, ugh!, oh well, gonna have to send the GF a text and see if she has any at work.
gonna pull the drum off first.
sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
Yes, they'll go out of round too. What I've found. after screwing up 2 sets of brand new drums(!), is to not set the shoes too tight when they are first put on. Drive with them a little on the loose side for the first week or two, depending on how much you drive it. During the initial break-in, this will make your pedal feel a bit low. After that re-adjust to firm up the pedal feel.
I've had drums that also require a turning right out of the box, too.
Why did GM not provide an window on the backing plates? PITA to remove the wheels, then the drums to adjust the shoes! And the auto-adjusters either work too well, causing the brakes to really tighten up when using the E-brake, or backing up & hitting the brakes, which causes the problem of warped drums from over heating, or they don't work at all.
I've had probs with both of my trucks pulling to one side or the other. Take into the front-end shop for an alignment, & they tell me that that's good. Now, if it starts pulling to ejther side, I'll re-adjust the rears, & that cures it. For a while anyhow.
This is one of the main reasons that I'm gonna do a rear disc conversion.
I've had drums that also require a turning right out of the box, too.
Why did GM not provide an window on the backing plates? PITA to remove the wheels, then the drums to adjust the shoes! And the auto-adjusters either work too well, causing the brakes to really tighten up when using the E-brake, or backing up & hitting the brakes, which causes the problem of warped drums from over heating, or they don't work at all.
I've had probs with both of my trucks pulling to one side or the other. Take into the front-end shop for an alignment, & they tell me that that's good. Now, if it starts pulling to ejther side, I'll re-adjust the rears, & that cures it. For a while anyhow.
This is one of the main reasons that I'm gonna do a rear disc conversion.
sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
If you're gonna do the rear brakes, get a kit, too. All the little rods & springs inside there. If you can get someone to help you bleed the brakes, I'd put new wheel cylinders in there, also.
FastOrange
OBSless
im gonna get drums, pads and the spring kit, i have $60 gift card for my GF's work, so hopefully thats enough, we will see
Swaggerwagon
¯\(°_o)/¯
lol, yur gonna have to come out of pocket mang, drums are high, well, they are around here...
Swaggerwagon
¯\(°_o)/¯
they are like $40 each here for the low quality drums, $66 for mid quality, and $120 for high grade drums....
