Peculiar starting issues

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tksoldierx

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Howdy all,

I’ve got a 1995 K1500 that came from the factory with a 350 L05. Motor was swapped to a 94 L05 that was bored out to a 383. Apparently the “local expert” that had helped my dad with the swap had put the distributor in one tooth off of the correct timing, which has caused dizzy cap & rotor & plugs & wires to go bad quickly and require a yearly or six-month-ly tune up (since 05 or so).

The distributor misalignment’s snowballed electrical mess eventually caused the truck to die on the way home from work one day (bout a month ago), which was followed by about a month of me trying to be cheap and handy - test this, then try to start it. Then research some more. Then test that, then try to start it. Etc. Finally had it towed to a shop to avoid fees from the city for a non-running vehicle, so the shop could do at least a diagnosis, and they found the dizzy misalignment. I opted to have them correct it instead of me going that deep in my engine, in the great outdoors in the dust and rain, with no experience that deep in an engine except with lawn mower engines.

Anyways. Now the truck runs and drives again, kinda seems like it’s burning through some bad gas which makes sense since it sat untreated for so long, but it’s residual issue is that about every other time I go to start it, it just does slow chugs of cranking without turning over. The only way I can get it to start when it does that is to apply 1/2 throttle and only turn the key for a short burst, then apply 3/4 throttle and it fires right up.

It works but makes me nervous to take it places where I won’t necessarily have access to a jump if the slow cranks drain the battery too bad, and I know for a fact the Mrs won’t be able to start it herself if it acts up when she needs it. Anyone have any input or advice?
 

Hipster

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Check your battery connections, positive and ground at the battery and the opposite ends as well with the battery disconnected, Might just be some corrosion or loose connection causing intermittent issues. Next would be to have the battery load tested and check alt output voltage. Batteries can freeze if they're low and that's usually the end of them. Should see 12.5v or so not running and 14v running checking with a meter. I think AutoZone or one of the parts stores can do a charging system/batt load tests.

Yes the distributor being off can lead to carbon tracking in the cap but thinking that was a separate issue. Did they do a cap and rotor? Being the engine has been out I'll say this, There's a ground strap on the rear of the passenger head to firewall and there's a ground from the block to frame. I believe drivers side. They need to be there.
 
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tksoldierx

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Check your battery connections, positive and ground at the battery

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I don’t know how I hadn’t noticed prior, but the shop replaced the battery terminals from the setup I had put in before with more washers than it seems like it needed. Whole different color terminals. The setup I had with extra long terminals and a ridiculous amount of washers was what had cured an issue where it would stall out on declines and going over railroad tracks. I added a washer to the new terminals and it seems to be fixed. Will update if the issue returns. Thanks guys!!
 

Schurkey

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1995 K1500 with a 350 L05. Motor was swapped to a 94 L05 that was bored out to a 383.
Bored and stroked to 383.

Apparently the “local expert” that had helped my dad with the swap had put the distributor in one tooth off of the correct timing, which has caused dizzy cap & rotor & plugs & wires to go bad quickly and require a yearly or six-month-ly tune up (since 05 or so).
Not reasonable. Even if the distributor was a tooth off, all they/you have to do is turn the distributor housing to correct the ignition timing. Once the ignition timing is correct...it's correct. LOOKS goofy, WORKS just fine.

SOMETHING ELSE is causing the tune-up problems.

about every other time I go to start it, it just does slow chugs of cranking without turning over.
Cranking IS "turning over". What you mean is that it cranks but doesn't start.

The only way I can get it to start when it does that is to apply 1/2 throttle and only turn the key for a short burst, then apply 3/4 throttle and it fires right up.
Yup. Something is wrong. I'd begin by analyzing the battery/starter/charging power team, which includes the wires and cables connecting the various parts together. Washers are not a fix.
 
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