Offset/wider stance

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smithy316

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1994 Chevy k2500 8 lug 6in lift When I have the money to(could be a while), I need new tires. I'm looking at Guard Dog 315/75R16s (35s). When I get tires, I'll probably get new wheels too, 16x10 steels. My question is how can I get offset like this
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? (Credit: @d_bertrand80 on Instagram) He has 10-12 lift 38/15.50 tires -76mm offset. What would I need to get that width or could I? Would it be close with say -70mm offset? Or would I have to run spacers to get this? I've heard the downsides of things like extra wear on wheel bearings etc, but I'm mostly concerned about rubbing in turns (I can trim a bit) and ill effects to daily driving it. Also how would this effect light offroading (hitting the occasional muddy field or dune)? Thanks in advance
 

kkirwan71

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You'll need a lot wider wheel than a 16x10 the pictures wheels are probably a x14 wheel with a -72 offset


Sent from my 3/4 ton iPhone
 

98slv

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Yeah you'll need a 20x14 or 22x14 to get that much offset. Otherwise you'll need four 2 inch spacers (on each side to get anywhere close to that stance.

Everyone has their own thoughts about spacers, I'm running 2 inch spacers of each corner on my half ton. Use to drive it everyday but i was going through wheel bearings about every 5 to 7 months. All so, if you have any slop at all in tour tie rod ends and ball joints, putting spacers on will create lots of death wobble, and that is not fun a DD. Believe me.

I'd find something like a -30 offset and no spacers, because the repair prices will start adding up when you're running spacers.
 

smithy316

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If I ran 16x10s with -70 offset no spacers, how far would my tires stick out? like a 1/4 of the tire? 1/3? 1/2?
 

michael hurd

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Unless you have very deep pockets, this is not an advisable thing. As mentioned, the loads on the wheel bearings, the control arm mounting points, as well as tie rods and component life will have a steep decline. Adding more weight to a wheel and tire package, and then extending the lever outwards ( wide offset wheels ) results in a lowered overall spring rate.
 

thz71

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I doubt they even make 16 with that much backspacing and it they do it'll look bad imo.
 

Horns

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Unless you have very deep pockets, this is not an advisable thing. As mentioned, the loads on the wheel bearings, the control arm mounting points, as well as tie rods and component life will have a steep decline. Adding more weight to a wheel and tire package, and then extending the lever outwards ( wide offset wheels ) results in a lowered overall spring rate.
+1 for even mentioning it, but you mean to say ride rate, not spring rate.

-via Mobile
 

michael hurd

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+1 for even mentioning it, but you mean to say ride rate, not spring rate.

-via Mobile

Yes, the spring rate has not changed, however the amount of force acting upon it has. I stand corrected.

This is a bit off topic, but I read a pretty eye opening test on coil springs, on RedShift's website.

Linky here: http://www.redshiftmotorsports.com/RedShiftSpringTesting.htm

Seems like most of the aftermarket springs are very inconsistent in terms of rate vs length, where the stock and HFP springs are pretty linear.
 
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