So i just picked up my new truck today. A 94 ecsb 2wd. It has been sitting for 2 years before i bought it. It had a dead battery so we hooked jumper cables to it, and cranked it about 3 seconds and fired right up. I was surprised. lol. But as she fired up and for the first minute or 2, the speedo was acting as a tach. And i couldnt figure it out. I checked the fuses, and couldnt find any that were blown. None of the gauges were working except the Speedo. Which wasnt really working. lol. We took the jumper cables off, and it instantly died. So we figured the battery was junk. (which it was), we brought a battery just in case and put it in and it fired right up. Long story short, the battery died again because the alternator was bad. But my question is why are the gauges screwed up? They still dont work, and the "Check Gages" light is on, and flickering. so im guessing a bad cluster or ground? any help will be appreciated. thanks.
New truck :) Electrical problems :(
- Thread starter 94bowtie
- Start date
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kiss4afrog
Newbie
If you haven't yet, take the alternator off and have one of the parts stores test it on their bench tester just to make sure. Once you have the new alternator on take it back to a parts store and have them use a handheld tester to make sure the new battery and alternator are working properly. While you are there borrow their scan tool to read the codes (check engine light flickering). Not all parts stores loan scanners but I know O'Reilly and I think Autozone do. Let us know what you find out and if you are still having the problem with the instruments.
Well i put the new alternator on, and its charging the battery now. But the gas gauge and the temp gauge arent working. I still cant figure it out. There isnt an O'Reillys or autozone for 50 or 60 miles. And it doesnt have plates or insurance on it yet, so I cant really drive it that far. The check gages light went off, so im guessing it was just the alternator. But the parking brake light is on, and wont go off.
ok, so i did a self code test and it came up with code 21. which is either TPS or ECM. While im driving, it tends to stumble a little bit. But im not sure if that has to do with me having no power front brakes. and maybe theyre dragging a bit. i dont know. But a bad ECM? it confuses me. lol
kiss4afrog
Newbie
Find the coolant temperature sensor and see if it's hooked up. With the ignition on, ground the wire and see if the needle swings. If so it's a bad sensor.
Gas gauge. You'll need a manual to get a diagnostic tree to follow. Check the fuses it's the easiest and cheapest but from there you have to see if the sender in the tank is getting voltage to it and where the signal isn't getting through.
Most likely you do have a bad TPS it would explain your stumbling. When they start to go bad that is a common symptom. If you can re-set the ECM's memory, clear it and then see if the check engine light comes back on again with that TPS code then you know it needs to be replaced.
Parking brake. Jack up the rear end and see if you can easily turn the wheels by hand. If so it's likely the cables are seized and not letting the cable fully loosen up so the parking brake pedal can turn off the switch. Pull the release and at the same time pull up on the pedal to see if the light goes out. The switch that turns off the light is built into the pedal like a stop light switch.
Gas gauge. You'll need a manual to get a diagnostic tree to follow. Check the fuses it's the easiest and cheapest but from there you have to see if the sender in the tank is getting voltage to it and where the signal isn't getting through.
Most likely you do have a bad TPS it would explain your stumbling. When they start to go bad that is a common symptom. If you can re-set the ECM's memory, clear it and then see if the check engine light comes back on again with that TPS code then you know it needs to be replaced.
Parking brake. Jack up the rear end and see if you can easily turn the wheels by hand. If so it's likely the cables are seized and not letting the cable fully loosen up so the parking brake pedal can turn off the switch. Pull the release and at the same time pull up on the pedal to see if the light goes out. The switch that turns off the light is built into the pedal like a stop light switch.
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well the gas gauge works, when the trucks off. like if i let it sit for a few minutes after i shut it off, the needle will move to where it should be. but the second i turn the key on, it pins to E. and the temp gauge, right when i turn the key on, it pins to the right (hot)
kiss4afrog
Newbie
Do you have a repair manual?
Did you at least get a wiring diagram?
Have you found or do you know where the coolant sensor is?
Do you have a voltmeter or at least a 12 volt test light?
You need to do some checking if you want anyone to help.
Did you at least get a wiring diagram?
Have you found or do you know where the coolant sensor is?
Do you have a voltmeter or at least a 12 volt test light?
You need to do some checking if you want anyone to help.
I dont have a repair manual, and I couldnt find a wiring diagram. I did find the coolant sensor, but i dont have a volt meter that i can find. I do have a 12v test light though. Ive been looking for a wiring diagram, but cant find anything yet.
With the temp sender unplugged the gauge should go to zero, if you ground the temp sender wire the gauge should go to full hot. Exact same with the fuel sender.
