First, welcome to the site.
Second, WHOA.... don't throw the baby out with the bathwater!!
You are blindly throwing parts at it to hope to make it run.... there is no diagnosis from what I can see. If you are bleeding, do you stick a random band-aid on your forehead?
Vortecs are no harder to work on than other vehicles, in many ways the self diagnosis system is better than the older trucks.
First off, pull the codes. You do not need it to run in order to do that, just the key in the run position. If you get any codes, even past codes, look up what they mean.
Next, check for fuel pump operation: does the pump make noise when the key is turned to the run position? You may need 2 people for this, one with an ear to the gas filler. ( open fuel door and remove gas cap )
After you have fuel, you need spark. When you replace the distributor in those engines, the timing needs to be set very precisely otherwise it will not run at all. Gm dealerships have the correct tool, there are a very limited number of scan tools in the aftermarket to read the timing offset and allow you to set it.
If you toss the injection, computer and so on for a carburetor, you now have nothing to run the dash cluster, and nothing to run the transmission. Not to mention the kilobuck or so spent on a carb, intake, fuel pressure regulator with return port and the likes.
If it just 'died' while running there could be a multitude of causes, did you pull a compression test? If there is compression in all the holes, fuel and spark ( with proper timing ) it must run.