New engine for 93 blazer?

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Bcampbsh

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Hey everyone,

I am restoring my 1993 k1500 blazer. I have had it for 16 years. After tracking down discontinued interior trim pieces and getting way to good at using epoxy on those I couldn't find. I have finally made it to the engine restore.

The stock L05-k has been fantastic. Still running strong with 300k+ miles. But I would like more torque in my new engine. I've decided between a few options. I'm in Cali so "smog"legal only. That means stuff they can't see is OK.

First- a brand new GM L05 crate. Either keep it as is. Or put in a mild cam and take the extra 15-20 lbs of torque. Obviously the easiest, less issues option.

Second- a brand new L31 engine. With the gmpp TBI to vortec intake. Have to plumb EGR but should yield 20-30+ hp/lb for similar price as L05 and cam.

Third- is this engine

http://www.blueprintengines.com/ind...anding/gm-383-truck-suv-main/item/gm-383-base

I talked to techs at blueprint and went over most issues I could think of with thier 383. They were very helpful and even went over some of the changes needed in the new chip.
Only thing is will it be a lemon or a good engine?

They were confident it would run well with only their chip tune. Maybe a up in injector pressure.

Any helpful hints or opinions? Been searching the interwebs for months now. Read most all tips and tricks.

Looking for 340-400lbs torque. Don't care much about high rpm HP.

Any info be great thanks!
 

Ironhead

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Opinion: A roller cam engine would be a better bet in terms of longevity and torque than a flat tappet engine. The Blueprint 383 looks ok, but it is a flat tappet engine, and I notice it is not smog legal. Not sure if that is a deal killer for you in CA.
 

slowburb

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Fueling will be an issue in most anything warmer than stock. Be prepared to run a better pump and a vacuum referenced pressure regulator. Also bigger/better injectors and possibly a big block tbi. Same with your tune. Be ready to work with an in-person tuner to get everything working right or you'll want to pull your hair out.

Having the opportunity to run a roller cam should not be passed up.

There are lots of CARB certified parts available for the sbc, including headers. These are the parts you should be looking at. I suggest finding an engine or speed shop that specializes or at least works on this type of package and seeing what they will offer.
 

Bcampbsh

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Headers will be some sort of a smog legal shorty. Already have a custom Y-pipe and full exhaust. So should be good there.

Either upgrade will require some sort of tune right? With the 383 requiring a new fuel pump, regulator, and maybe a Holley 670 TBI?

Luckily I have a tuner nearby that will run my truck on a dyno and tune it. Not bad pricing for dyno time. I think I will get the dynamic EBL. Do the tuning that i can .Then have them fine tune with that. Be quicker and easier for them. Bout the same $$ if it saves an hour or two at tuner!

Blueprint makes the 383 with a roller cam also. So that's an option but more $$.

Does anyone know how much torque gain you get from a "RV" style cam swap in a stock L05? With a proper tune will it get to 330-340 lbs?

Thanks for the help everyone.
 

Ironhead

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A roller cam allows the valves to be opened more quickly than does a flat tappet cam. (Because the roller lifter does not wear the lobe under such pressure) Because of this, the total valve opening profile is greater, and allows the engine to pump more air into the cylinder. Because of this, a roller cam, properly designed, will produce more torque and power than a flat tappet cam.

How much extra is the roller cam option? Might be worth it, for both power, and peace of mind when it comes to cam/lifter wear worries.
 

shovelbill

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last week I was at the same quandary that you're presently in.........my "new to me" '98's L31 is having issues. oil pump to be exact. she was clacking real bad one day I when I got off the highway.....was considering a new pump.....for a day or so. at 175K it's not a lot of mileage to me, but i'm doing the whole truck over and didn't want to skimp here.......the transmission was rebuilt by the guy I got it from 2 years ago, seems fine for now.

I researched a new L31 4 bolt main block. that's the over 8,600 pound GVW block.....the under 8,600 pound GVW block had 2 bolt main caps.......really for the way I drive it, it really doesn't matter (sorta). the heads also have real seats too as I understand. a good thread: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/gm-vortec-crate-engine-differences.791144/

I live in NYC and all my driving, when I need a cage, is in the 5 boroughs and surrounding highways......I NEED power to pass these foreigner ***** that like to do 45mph in the fast lane......actually a really should be in a zippy little sports car....but no.

$2K for a stock crate L31, plus a new exhaust and peripherals (water pump, distributor, etc)......or the HT383E and a new exhaust? is the extra $2400 dollars worth it? will it grenade my trans? what to do what to do?

at my age and with the time I have left I decided on wanting the torque to get me where i need to go and WHEN I want the power i'll have it........I don't look back and say "i shoula" anymore.

when in doubt....go big or go home.........I just ordered the 383. http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Performance/809/19332531/10002/-1

i'll be making a thread on what i'll be doing to my truck.... a build thread of sorts.....even though I can't be doing the work myself due to physical limitations.

in your shoes, I'd build/buy a roller Vortec long block and get it to work with the TBI.......my last truck was a '90 K5, my first fuel injected vehicle ever.
 
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