My Flat Tappet Cam Wiped Out So I Decided To Go Roller

[Supercharged111]

The easiest way I found to do it was compare steps after it stabilized. If it is at say 5 steps, turn the ac on on and it jumps up to 20 steps, you want say 15-20 steps with the ac added. Overshoot a bit and let the ecm logic pull a few steps.

This logic, is it adjustable in the tune or locked away? This is the function I was asking about.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

This logic, is it adjustable in the tune or locked away? This is the function I was asking about.

Yes it is. The EBL has 8 flash banks so I can modify one, in TunerPro RT, save it as a different .bin, flash it to a different bank (takes about 4 seconds). Then I can switch back and forth to different banks while running, to compare how it acts.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

This logic, is it adjustable in the tune or locked away? This is the function I was asking about.

I would have to look at it all to refresh my memory on it, but I think it it has some IAC filters that can adjust how quickly the IAC responds to idle speed variations.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I have another issue. Even though there's other threads about this, I'm gonna keep it here so, I can have one place to refer to.

The Blue Print short block I have is a Vortec style with no water pump bypass port. Yesterday, when warming up the engine, I noticed the gauge on my dash showed it go up to ~258° while the sender next to the T-Stat housing was only ~160°. Once the T-Stat opens up, the dash gauge quickly goes down to ~10° higher than the ECM and pretty much stays there with T-Stat modulating up and down, as it should.

I have a 180° Mr Gasket high flow T-Stat in which I drilled a 1/8" hole, based on suggestions here on this website. I do have the heater hose going from the back of the intake, through that infamous "Quick Connect", to the heater core, and back to the radiator, with no block off valve. I did replace the sensor in the head with a Dakota Digital 04-5 (2 wire) which has a longer stem than the previous one. I'm wondering if it's reading closer to the combustion chambers, causing the high readings, or is this what happens when you have TBI heads on a Vortec block.

I think I'm gonna cut down the stem in the new sensor (hopefully to get it closer to the center of the water jacket) and, drill a couple more 1/8" holes in the T-Stat.

Any ideas, suggestions?

 

[arrg]

Here's a few things for you to try to get it to idle in closed loop:

--First, undo the changes you made to the stall saver. If it's hitting the stall saver, you'll never get it to a stable idle.
--Second, remember to make one change at a time and then test it. If you change a bunch of things in the tune at once, you don't know what change worked and what didn't
--Bump up the idle speed in 50 rpm increments until it stops stalling. This is just temporary so you can work on the surging, but with that big cam you may need a 850-900 rpm idle
--Try cutting the SA-Idle High/Low Compensation tables by 50%. I've seen Bob recommend this on multiple threads over on Thirdgen to help stabilize idle. If that doesn't work, try raising them by 50%; maybe your combination wants more compensation not less
---These tables work with the SA-Idle High/Low Map Multiplier tables to determine the SA compensation. The EBL_F_3001.bin is the most modified example BIN included with the EBL. Take a look at how Bob changed these tables in that BIN.
--You can increase the IAC-Park to Drive steps scalar
--If none of that has any positive effect, you could try moving the O2-Idle Window Terms--try increasing (makes it richer) the whole table 50mV at a time

 

[Supercharged111]

Have you played with VE at all? You could just tweak VE in the driveway at idle and monkey with the idle to make it drivable, then get VE where you want it before revisiting the idle stuff to finalize it.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Have you played with VE at all? You could just tweak VE in the driveway at idle and monkey with the idle to make it drivable, then get VE where you want it before revisiting the idle stuff to finalize it.

Yes, I have, thanks. In CL, cAFR was 14.7, in OL. cAFR was 13.5. Then, running VE Learn, the EBL was pulling a little fuel trying to get back to 14.7. Then it went back to stalling in gear. So, I think running a little richer does help.

I may set target AFR down to ~14. Then, as @arrg suggested jack up idle a little at a time.

--Bump up the idle speed in 50 rpm increments until it stops stalling. This is just temporary so you can work on the surging, but with that big cam you may need a 850-900 rpm idle
--Try cutting the SA-Idle High/Low Compensation tables by 50%. I've seen Bob recommend this on multiple threads over on Thirdgen to help stabilize idle. If that doesn't work, try raising them by 50%; maybe your combination wants more compensation not less
---These tables work with the SA-Idle High/Low Map Multiplier tables to determine the SA compensation. The EBL_F_3001.bin is the most modified example BIN included with the EBL. Take a look at how Bob changed these tables in that BIN.
--You can increase the IAC-Park to Drive steps scalar
--If none of that has any positive effect, you could try moving the O2-Idle Window Terms--try increasing (makes it richer) the whole table 50mV at a time

Thanks, I'll try these suggestions. IIRC I started with Bob's 3001.bin in the beginning with my Lunati flat tappet cam, modified it for the previous 08-430-8 roller cam, and now this 08-432-8 one. I'm using @84Elky's SA timing spreadsheet with the idle area flattened out. I've been following that EBL thread on Thirdgen too but, haven't read all 100+ pages

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I'm doing the same with the VE Table - note; this is with some VE Learn and no smoothing yet. I have some more VE Learn to do while driving around after I get the idle decent.

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[Supercharged111]

I HATE trying to blend those 3D tables, and the smoothing tools never seem to be enough help.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

My son came over yesterday and brought some of his tools including his fluid sucker and a vacuum filler. He sucked down the radiator to get as much as he could out of it. Then he pulled the CTS out of the head, I cut it down so it is as short as the original Dakota Digital sensor I had in there. The idea was to get it more into the center of the water jacket.

Next was to pull the T-Stat. It's kinda a PITA because one of the bolts hold the brace bar for the belt tensioner plus there's 5 wires grounded on those bolts too. Anyway, I had drilled an 1/8" hole in it before, now I added 2 more 5/32" holes to it.

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This is cool, he stuck the suction hose from the vacuum filler into his fluid sucker tank, built up a vacuum in the cooling system of my truck, turned off the vacuum, and watched the gauge, like you would do in an A/C system, to check for leaks - none. He open the suction hose valve and within a couple minutes all of the coolant was back in the radiator. This also eliminates the chance of getting any air pockets stuck in the system.

Here's when he started to build up a vacuum

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This is when he was filling the radiator.

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Then I started it up, watching my temp gauge on the dash, and the 'puter's the CTS in the head stayed about 20° higher than the ECM's while warming up, it did take a little longer for the T-Stat to open but, who cares here in AZ. The dash gauge showed a little over 200° when the 180° T-Stat opened at ~190° on the display. Then they both cooled down to the point where the dash showed ~10° warmer than the ECM. That was how it acted all the time before this engine so, I'm happy

Now, time for her maiden voyage to go get some 91 octane down her gut. I took it easy, barely using 1/4 throttle most of the time
A couple times I hit it with 1/2 throttle - nice get up and go with no Knock Counts. Then I just couldn't help it. From a stop sign I floored it (well almost). and burned rubber across the intersection before I let up - nice! Then, we turned on to highway 85 heading to the QT station. I hit it in 2nd gear up to 5700 RPM before I let off, it still wanted to go more, nice smooth acceleration with no KCs

I still have it set up for VE Learn and, now that I have some 91 in it, I'll do some driving around to tune. It still surges when stopped, in gear so, I have work to do on that. Good day!

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Oh, BTW when cruising at ~2200 RPM my oil pressure was 60 PSI. When idling in gear, it was ~45 with 30 weight break-in dino oil. Blue Print uses a Melling High Volume oil pump.