Looking for proper (SAI) secondary air injection pump / plumbing delete information for 99’ 5.7L c1500

[A97obs]

From memory I want to say that the LS1 block off plates fit.

LS EGR Exhaust Block Off Plate

As featured on Classic Truck’s Week to Wicked. Watch the transformation here! These EGR exhaust block-off plates are intended for use on non-pollution controlled, off-road vehicles only. For GM LS engines Hardware and O-ring are included Measures 1-3/4" center-to-center on bolt holes

www.speedwaymotors.com

Informative
Do you have any recommendations on my other post on more importantly eradicating Moreless deleting the air pump system from the PCM? I mean the CEL light is on and will be on regardless if I remove the lines and pump . That way if my cel ever comes on I know it’s for A new issue obviously. Can a shop speed shop or a program flash that away ? Or would you say just swap pcm from a 98-99 Non smog Chevy with a 5.7L

 

[L31MaxExpress]

One other factor and question? If one can successfully and does successfully remove the AIR pump and tubes and blocks off all the B.S

Any recommendations on what to do for the CEL light or Can the pcm be flashed to remove the codes for the Secondary air injection pump making it non existent in the computer ? Another words making the vehicle as if it’s just a Non Air injection pump 5.7 truck ?
Because the CEL light will and does stay on wether it’s not working or I remove AND unplug the harnesses

Just flash it with a Federal emissions tune. There are other parts of the tuning that were neutered in California tunes. The California tunes run them richer with less timing advance than a Federal tune. You could swap the PCM with a truck that has the same engine, trans and rear gear. Just make sure the truck is 2wd or 4x4, whichever matches your rig. On the 98+ all you have to do is plug the PCM in and perform the key on VATs relearn.

 

[A97obs]

Just flash it with a Federal emissions tune. There are other parts of the tuning that were neutered in California tunes. The California tunes run them richer with less timing advance than a Federal tune. You could swap the PCM with a truck that has the same engine, trans and rear gear. Just make sure the truck is 2wd or 4x4, whichever matches your rig. On the 98+ all you have to do is plug the PCM in and perform the key on VATs relearn.

Good deal , So as far as them speedway block of plates are concerned if they do work I don’t know I called Speedway and talked to ther race tech team are plates even necessary? If I keep the emissions manifolds ? Is that true about the one way valve in the exhaust manifold that allows the air in but not out? I mean we both heard that from the other fella that posted ! Or are the block offs still good to use as an additional safeguard for leaking manifolds if I remove them AIR lines

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Good deal , So as far as them speedway block of plates are concerned if they do work I don’t know I called Speedway and talked to ther race tech team are plates even necessary? If I keep the emissions manifolds ? Is that true about the one way valve in the exhaust manifold that allows the air in but not out? I mean we both heard that from the other fella that posted ! Or are the block offs still good to use as an additional safeguard for leaking manifolds if I remove them AIR lines

The check valves will fail pretty quickly if they are left open and make a high pitch buzzing sound. Personally I would pull the lines and block off the ports. This is also a reason those plates should work. The gaskets are the same.

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[A97obs]

gonna go for it !

 

[L31MaxExpress]

1. I've never understood the hate for AIR pumps. They don't take much power to run, they don't cause driveability issues unless the diverter valve sticks. There's essentially no downside to them.

2. There's no need to do ANYTHING with the exhaust manifolds. There's a one-way check valve on them already. Take the hose off of each one, let the check valve do it's thing. Done. This assumes that the tubing isn't rusted out, though. Some guys fold-over the steel tubing to positively seal the exhaust, others unscrew the tubing from the manifold, and cram in a brass plug.

3. Unbolt the engine-mounted pump, get a shorter belt to drive the rest of the accessories. Or remove the newer-style pump from it's brackets and tie up the harness nice 'n' neatly.

I meant to post this when I responded to you before. This is why I could not stand my air pumps on my 83. That was the 20 lbs of crap packed in a 5 lbs bag that was the engine compartment of a G van. The only way to get to the spark plugs was from under the van. It had 2 air pumps, two air pump canister style filters, massive air tubing with mufflers at the air check valves and loads of just junk crammed into the engine bay. I did not feel guilty at all throwing all that garbage in the trash, installing Thorley tri-ys, high flow cats and a GM TBI system on top. It blew very low emissions readings on the dyno emissions sniffer after where it previously practically failed every year without the shop that smogged it tinkering with stuff. There were actually several shops over the years that did not want to smog a factory GM OEM catless dual exhaust system.

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